Tales From the Graveyard

Terri Akman

is a writer in Philadelphia

Walking in Society Hill one warm summer evening, I heard beautiful music coming out of the St. Peter's Church graveyard at 313 Pine St., a place I'd typically avoid at night. Curious, I entered the gate to discover parents, kids, and dogs scattered among the grave markers on blankets and folding chairs, being serenaded by professional musicians by moonlight. Turns out, for three years the church has invited the community for free music on various summer evenings.

During the day, visitors are encouraged to walk through the markers, a mix of obelisks, broken columns, pyramids, and pedestals with urns. Dating back to 1761, many are worn almost completely away. A sign directs visitors to a phone number to instantly call up a cemetery tour that informs listeners about the notable Revolutionary War figures, national politicians, artists, and simple Joes buried there.

You don't have to be a history buff to recognize some of the names, like banker Nicholas Biddle, president of the Second Bank of the United States. I knew he was a banker, but didn't know that he was credited with bringing the classical revival style to Philly in choosing architect William Strickland to design the Second Bank on Chestnut Street in the style of the Greek temple.

Also buried there is Stephen Decatur, who first defeated the Barbary pirates in 1804 by burning the USS Philadelphia, which had run aground in Tripoli, keeping it out of enemy hands. By the War of 1812, he was a commodore and negotiated peace with the Barbary pirates. Killed in 1820 in a duel, Decatur was buried in Washington, but his remains were moved to his family's plot at St. Peter's in 1846.

The chiefs of eight Native American tribes who died of smallpox while visiting Philly in 1793 are buried somewhere in the cemetery, though their grave sites are unknown. Even the magnificent trees are historic - Osage oranges from seedlings sent back from the West by Lewis and Clark in 1805.

And right next door at 412 Pine sits the Old Pine Street Church and its crowded graveyard, founded in 1764. In less than three-quarters of an acre, between 4,000 and 5,000 people are buried three-deep, at 9-, 6-, and 3-foot depths. Among the famous are Jared Ingersoll, a signer of the Constitution, and William Hurry, who is said to have rung the Liberty Bell to proclaim the Declaration of Independence.

Small signs scattered throughout the graveyard and perimeter are filled with interesting facts, one claiming that someone 122 years old is buried there. Skeptical, I dug further and was told by Ronn Shaffer, who is extremely knowledgeable about his church and passionate when giving tours, that the man's name was Samuel McCutcheon. His age at death was documented by church records.

Shaffer also introduced me to the Rev. George Duffield, co-chaplain of the Continental Congress, whose wooden statue oversees the graveyard and welcomes visitors. The statue was carved last year by sculptor Roger Wing out of a dying 100-year-old Norway maple that threatened to topple the surrounding fence. Needing a place to tether the fence - there wasn't room to dig below ground without disturbing the graves - so the top of the tree was cut off and now patriot Pastor Duffield holds up the fence while seeming to preach to the 285 Revolutionary War soldiers buried in the graveyard.

Movie buffs flock to the graveyard to find the section where Nicolas Cage's character was pursued by bad guys in National Treasure. (Hint: It's on Pine Street behind the church.) The scene was shot in 2005 over five days, yielding 92 seconds of film. Shaffer tells visitors about "the fakery" of the scene, which included Styrofoam gravestones and a wrought-iron fence that was actually made of wood and plastic.

These churches are just two of so many historical points of interest hidden in plain sight beyond the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall. Keep an eye, and ear, out for them. In fact, check out this Wednesday's concert at St. Peter's Church at 6:30 p.m. featuring the Alan Segal Jazz Quintet. Bring your kids, your dog, and a blanket or folding chairs. The Bonjour Creperie food truck will be on hand in the churchyard selling dinner and dessert.

Everyone is welcome. Just be respectful of the gravestones. It's truly an enjoyable, unique experience.

terribakman@gmail.com