All those heirloom tomatoes are nice, but it's really the tacos al pastor that have me hooked on the Sunday farmer's market at Head House Square. We're so addicted to the food stand there run by South Philly's Los Taquitos de Puebla that the mere thought of their taco platter actually gets my sleepyhead family out of bed.

The al pastor meat - layers of pork marinated in cuminy guajillo chile salsa, orange juice, and achiote - turns and sizzles like a Mexican gyro on the pineapple-topped spit behind the oil-drum griddle where the taqueria warms its tortillas. Once the meat is shaved on, sprinkled with cilantro-onions and dabbed with tomatillo-avocado salsa, the taco master gives a final flourish. A flick of his knife sends a golden sliver of pineapple soaring through the air - smack onto the middle of each little taco.

Platter of three tacos al pastor, $7, Los Taquitos de Puebla stand, Farmer's Market at Head House Square, Sundays 10 a.m.-2 p.m.

- Craig LaBan