Just when you thought Zombie was gone, it's ba-aack - and stinkier than ever.

On an Italian cheese.

The Zombie in question is the coveted Double India Black Ale fermented with wild honey from Tired Hands Brewing Co. in Ardmore, a long-gone fall seasonal rated "exceptional" by BeerAdvocate.com.

Di Bruno Bros. cheesemonger Richard-Luis Morillo kept a stash, however, and has been washing buffalo's milk Taleggios called Quadrello di Bufala to extraordinary effect.

Washing already finished cheeses in beer brine is a growing trend that adds extra flavor dimensions. For Quadrello, a cheese from Bergamo whose sticky orange rind and semisoft paste is already full-flavored, the beer wash is compelling, adding a brown brick hue to the rind that deepens and amplifies its naturally beefy funk, but also frames it in the ale's faint honeyed sweetness.

- Craig LaBan
Zombie-washed Quadrello di Bufala, $27.99 a pound, at Di Bruno Bros.' 1730 Chestnut St. location only.