Drink: Dr. Fischer Ockfener Bockstein Kabinett Riesling 2011

Few wines can match the dynamic moves of a good riesling - the world's most underappreciated grape.

And when you find one like this 2011 Ockfener Bockstein Kabinett from Dr. Fischer in the Saar, on sale in Pennsylvania for an amazing $13, you'll realize there's rarely a better value.

What do I mean by moves? A good riesling changes like a chameleon from sniff to sip, and is never what you first expect - not, at least, from the perfume of nectar, white peach, and apple that greets your nose.

And while that first sip does indeed taste like it was filtered through honeycomb, the lovely orchard sweetness suddenly dries out on the tongue into stony minerals and crisp acidity that snaps at the finish.

And calls you back for more. This wine is ideal for fish with a little richness (like pan-seared trout in lemony butter). And at a price more typical for lower-tier QbA's, it's worth snapping up by the case.

- Craig LaBan
Dr. Fischer Ockfener Bockstein Kabinett Riesling 2011, $12.99 in Pennsylvania (code 33075.)