L'Oca upgraded to 2 bells

2025 Fairmount Ave., 215-769-0316; www.locafairmount.com.

REVISITED: This promising Italian BYO across from Eastern State Penitentiary offers the Fairmount crowd a decidedly Northern Italian menu, from sage-buttered dumplings to pappardelle with goose stew. The sunny corner room is an appealing new option for the neighborhood, and the kitchen has overcome some consistency problems at the initial review to earn its second bell in an October revisit.

At that revisit, the chef's penchant for earthy flavors and game sang through a succulent wild boar chop wrapped in crisped pancetta. A "tartufo" toast topped with shaved truffles, raw chanterelles and creamy cheese was like biting into a morsel of the Piedmont. Service has also relaxed and improved. Reviewed March 25; revisited mid-October.