MarketBasket: State of beans

Down East author John Thorne once wrote: " ... only in Maine can you ever really get to know beans." And, indeed, the state is full of heirloom varieties favored (with slight regional preferences) for classic New England baked beans. Whether you like classic yellow eyes, Jacob's cattle beans, marafax, sulphurs, or soldiers (see recipe for Tuscan-style soldiers from Chase's Daily), the best mail-order sources should soon be selling this season's freshly harvested crop.

The Beanery, Exeter, Maine, 207-278-3572 (2 lb. minimum, $2.50-$3.25 a pound, plus shipping); Freedom Bean Farm, Albion, Maine, 207-437-2211 (16 lb. orders only, $45, shipping included.) Craig LaBan