Vegetable expert's must-have book on plant cookery

Who's your favorite expert on cooking vegetables? For many, it has long been Deborah Madison, of The Greens Cookbook, Local Flavors, the landmark Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone, and more. As a gardener, former farmer's market manager, and chef (with cooking chops honed at Chez Panisse and Greens), Madison knows her produce and what to do with it.

In her latest book, Vegetable Literacy (Ten Speed Press; $40), she aims to bring us closer to her level of knowledge by helping us think about the subject in a new way. It's a must-have book for anyone interested in plant-based cooking.

The book's subtitle is "Cooking and Gardening With Twelve Families From the Edible Plant Kingdom, With Over 300 Deliciously Simple Recipes." Indeed, her mission is to illuminate the connections among vegetables from the same family, to show how they can be treated in similar ways in the kitchen, used interchangeably and sometimes together. Mustard and horseradish make natural companions for kale and cabbage because, well, they're all part of the brassica family - or, using an older term, they're all crucifers.

Virtually every page of Vegetable Literacy contains a nugget of helpful or just plain interesting information. (I'd call it trivia, but in Madison's lyrical telling, nothing seems trivial.) Examples: Crucifers are called that because of their cross-shaped flowers. Some European brassicas are referred to as cole crops, which helps explain the terms coleslaw, colcannon, collard, and kohlrabi. (Kale, too, perhaps?) Birds can't feel the heat from chili peppers. One reason to scrub, not peel, carrots is that you'll rob them of some flavor, not to mention nutrition. Gathering places for farmers were called grange halls because farmers originally were known as grangers, or grain growers. Groats are the whole berries of grains, and grits are their cut-up versions, and that includes not just corn grits but even steel-cut oats.

Madison paves the path to literacy with delicious recipes, illustrated by "Canal House" queens Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton and their trademark style of luscious-meets-rustic photography. Plenty of cooks will skip all the botanical and gardening information, as fascinating as it is, and merely get to work envisioning and making their next meal.

Success awaits. To spoon into Peas With Baked Ricotta and Bread Crumbs is to marvel at a match made in heaven. To bite into Carrot Almond Cake is to wonder: Why didn't I think of that?

Because you're not vegetable-literate yet, that's why. But you're getting there.

Makes 4 servings

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1 head cauliflower

   (about 11/2 pounds),

   broken into small

   florets, the core

   diced (about 6 cups) Sea salt

8 ounces dried small

   pasta shells, snails

   or other shapes

2 tablespoons olive oil,

   plus more for toss-         ing the pasta

1 small onion, finely

   diced

2 pinches saffron

   threads

1 large clove garlic,

   minced

Scant 1 teaspoon

   crushed red pepper

   flakes

1/4 cup finely chopped,

   lightly packed flat-

   leaf parsley

1/2 cup water

Grated aged cheese or

   crumbled feta cheese

   (optional)

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1. Bring a wide pot of water to a boil over high heat. (The pot should be large enough and deep enough for cooking the pasta.) Place the cauliflower florets and diced core in a heatproof colander and place it over the pot; cover and steam for about 3 minutes. To test for doneness, taste a piece; it should be on the verge of tenderness but not quite fully cooked. Uncover and transfer the colander to the sink to drain.

2. If needed, let the water return to a boil, then add a generous pinch of salt and the pasta. Cook just until al dente.

3. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a wide skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and saffron; cook for about 6 minutes, stirring frequently, until the onion has softened. The heat will activate the saffron so that it colors and flavors the onion. Stir in the garlic, the crushed red pepper flakes, and a few pinches of the parsley, then add the steamed cauliflower. Toss to coat it evenly, then add the water and cook (over medium heat) until the cauliflower is tender, just a few minutes. Season with salt, toss with half of the remaining parsley, and keep warm.

4. While the cauliflower is cooking, drain the pasta and transfer it to a warmed bowl. Toss with a few tablespoons of oil and the remaining parsley. Taste for salt, then spoon the cauliflower over the pasta, wiggle some of it into the pasta crevices, sprinkle the cheese on top (to taste) and serve.

- Adapted from "Vegetable Literacy"

Variations note: Peel and devein 1 pound of Gulf shrimp, then saute them over high heat in olive oil until pink and firm, after 5 minutes or so. Toss them with chopped garlic and parsley, then divide them among the individual pasta plates or heap them over the top of the communal dish. Omit the cheese.

Per serving: 310 calories, 9 grams protein, 51 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams sugar, 8 grams fat, no cholesterol, 115 milligrams sodium, 6 grams dietary fiber. EndText

Makes 4 servings

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1 cup long-grain white rice

Sea salt

2 large bunches (2 pounds) spinach

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 large clove garlic,

cut into slivers

Grated zest of 2 lemons

(2 tablespoons)

1 heaping tablespoon chopped dill or marjoram

2 ounces or more feta cheese, crumbled

1/3 cup raw unsalted

pistachio nuts, lightly

toasted (see note)

Freshly ground black

pepper

Crushed red pepper flakes

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1. Bring 2 cups of water to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Add the rice and 1/2 teaspoon of salt; stir well. Once the water returns to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover and cook until the liquid is absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the heat. Meanwhile, discard any tough spinach stems. Plunge the leaves into plenty of cold water and wash them well - twice if need be - then dry.

2. Combine the oil and garlic in a large skillet over medium-high heat; once the garlic begins to turn pale gold and flavor the oil, discard the garlic, then add the spinach and a few pinches of salt. Cook until the spinach has wilted, which will happen rather quickly; then turn off the heat. When the spinach is cool enough to handle, chop it and transfer it a mixing bowl, along with the lemon zest and dill. Toss to incorporate.

3. Uncover the rice and use a fork to fluff it, then transfer the rice to the mixing bowl and toss to incorporate. Taste, and add salt as needed. Add the feta and pistachios and toss again. Season with black pepper and a few pinches of the crushed red pepper flakes.

4. Serve immediately, or let cool a bit.

Note: Toast the pistachio nuts in a small, dry skillet over medium-low heat until fragrant and lightly browned, shaking the pan to avoid scorching. Cool completely.

Per serving: 350 calories, 14 grams protein, 49 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams sugar, 12 grams fat, 15 milligrams cholesterol, 410 milligrams sodium, 7 grams dietary fiber. EndText

Makes 2 servings

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Olive oil

1 cup top-quality ricot-      ta cheese, such as

   hand-dipped whole-         milk ricotta

2 to 3 tablespoons

   plain fresh bread-

   crumbs

4 teaspoons unsalted

   butter

2 large shallots or 1/2

   small onion, finely

   diced (about 1/3 cup) 5 small sage leaves,

   minced (about 11/2

   teaspoons)

11/2 pounds peas in

   their pods, shucked

   (about 1 cup; may

   substitute 1 cup             freshly shucked             peas)

1/2 cup water

Grated zest of 1 lemon

Sea salt

Fresh ground black pepper

Chunk of Parmigiano-         Reggiano cheese, for

   a grated garnish

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1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Grease a small baking dish with a little oil.

2. If the ricotta is wet and milky, drain it first by putting it in a colander and pressing out excess liquid. Pack the ricotta into the baking dish and drizzle a little oil over the surface; bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until the cheese has begun to set and brown on top. Cover the surface with the bread crumbs and bake for 10 minutes, until the bread crumbs are browned and crisp and the cheese has set. (The amount of time it takes for ricotta cheese to bake until set can vary tremendously, so it may well take longer than the times given here, especially if the cheese was not drained.)

3. When the cheese has set, melt the butter in a small skillet over medium heat until the butter foams. Add the shallots and sage and cook for about 3 minutes, until softened, then stir in the peas, water, and lemon zest. Cook until the peas are bright green and tender; the time will vary, but it should take 3 to 5 minutes. Do not overcook. Season with salt and a little pepper.

4. Divide the ricotta between individual plates, then spoon the peas over the baked cheese. Grate the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese over the top. Serve warm.

- Adapted from "Vegetable Literacy"

Per serving: 450 calories, 24 grams protein, 36 grams carbohydrates, 14 grams sugar, 25 grams fat, 85 milligrams cholesterol, 270 milligrams sodium, 9 grams dietary fiber.

Makes 8 to 10 servings

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For the cake:

4 tablespoons             unsalted butter,          plus more as             needed

11/2 cups finely    

   ground blanched

   or slivered amonds    (skinned)

   (may   substitute

   almond flour)

Finely grated zest of

   2 lemons

3/4 cup plus 2 table-         spoons organic          granulated sugar

11/4 cups unbleached

   cake flour

2 teaspoons baking

   powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

4 large eggs

1/4 teaspoon almond

   extract

Scant 2 cups grated

   carrots

For the ricotta cream: 1 cup whole-milk    

   ricotta cheese

1 cup regular or low-      fat sour cream

2 tablespoons honey

Grated zest of 1             lemon

Confectioners' sugar,

   for dusting

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1. For the cake: Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees. Melt the 4 tablespoons of butter and let it cool.

2. Combine the ground almonds, lemon zest, and 2 tablespoons of the granulated sugar in a food processor. Pulse until well incorporated.

3. Grease a 9-inch springform pan with a little butter, then dust the sides with some of the almond-zest mixture, shaking out any excess.

4. Sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Combine the eggs and the remaining 3/4 cup of granulated sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer or hand-held electric mixer. Beat on low, then high speed until pale, foamy, and thick, about 5 minutes. Reduce the speed to low; add the remaining almond-zest mixture, the almond extract, and the flour mixture, beating until well incorporated. Pour the cooled butter over the batter and quickly fold it in, followed by the carrots.

5. Scrape the batter into the pan, smoothing the surface. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees; bake the cake until it is springy to the touch in the center, lightly browned and beginning to pull away from the pan sides, about 40 minutes. Let it cool completely in its pan, then release the springform and slide the cake onto a platter.

6. For the ricotta cream: Work together the ricotta, sour cream, honey, and zest by hand or with a mixer on low speed, until smooth. Taste, and add more of any of the ingredients as needed. The cream will thin out as it sits, forming a nice sauce for the cake.

7. Just before serving, dust the cake with the confectioners' sugar. Serve the sauce alongside.

Per serving (based on 10, using low-fat sour cream and half the ricotta cream): 350 calories, 10 grams protein, 40 grams carbohydrates, 22 grams sugar, 18 grams fat, 105 milligrams cholesterol, 220 milligrams sodium, 3 grams dietary fiber.