Beans are rediscovered as a cheap, healthy protein

Dried beans, the once-humble legumes that have been considered magical since the tale of Jack and the Beanstalk, are rising to superstar status as chefs and home cooks rediscover their value as a cheap, healthy protein, especially as Americans are eating less meat.

For health as well as environmental reasons, in a supporting role or in the center of the plate, people are eating more beans, says Linda Smithson, cofounder of FoodWatch.

Garbanzo, navy, black, cannellini, no matter the variety, these old reliables all satisfy the growing number of people choosing or requiring a specialized diet: vegan, vegetarian, diabetic, gluten-free, lactose intolerant, or the ever popular flexitarian - choosing to be any of the above when the mood strikes.

Brad Spence, chef at Amis in Center City, is just back from Italy where beans were on every menu. Upon his return he re-created a dish for his restaurant menu based on one of the most delicious things he ever tasted, a bean and barley soup. Markets are responding with an increasingly multihued rainbow of beans from the tiniest red lentil to speckled anasazi to giant white coco beans.

Dried beans or pulses are nutritionally dense, a great source of dietary fiber and complex carbohydrates with a guilt-free carbon footprint.

And if that isn't enough, beans are incredibly versatile. Almost all are good stewed, mashed, refried, and layered, and a few can even be candied and served for snacks or dessert.

Some are best simmered gently, one or two are regularly fermented, still others are most often baked.

While canned beans are a great convenience, cooking dried beans has many advantages. Dried beans cost less per serving than any other protein. If purchased from the bulk aisle, little or no packaging is needed.

But, most important, starting with dried beans gives a home cook the most control over the flavor and texture of the finished dish, as dried beans take up flavors exceptionally well as they cook.

Adding a bay leaf, a piece of kombu, a clove of garlic, a heel of Parmesan, a smoked turkey wing or leg or other bone to the pot while cooking will add flavor to the beans. Ubiquitous white beans, whether white navy, baby lima or cannellini, easily absorb the flavors of roasted vegetables, dried rosemary, and stock to make a tender vegetable one-dish dinner.

(With precooked canned beans, there is not time for seasonings to penetrate the bean flesh before the texture of the bean becomes soft and mushy.)

The fresher the dried beans the shorter the cooking time required to soften and fully cook them. (Purchase from suppliers whose inventory is regularly replenished, as old dried beans may never truly soften even when soaked and preboiled. Inspect the package and look for firm, clean, whole beans with a minimum of cracks and broken seed coats. The color should be bright; the beans should have a slight sheen.)

Dried beans expand when they cook, and larger beans expand more than small ones. Depending on the type and age of the bean, one cup of dry beans (which weighs about ½ pound) will make 2½ to 3½ cups of cooked beans. It pays to make more than you need, as cooked beans can be frozen easily for up to six months, and store well in the refrigerator for up to a week. Using a portion of beans from the freezer is no more work than opening a can.

Many a cook will advise that salt should not be added until the end of cooking, but personal experience and a review of research have long debunked this myth in my kitchen. Moreover, beans salted during cooking seem to require less total salt to taste properly seasoned.

(I salt just after bringing the beans to a boil, and always before the final half hour of cooking.)

Yet, acidic ingredients such as tomato products or vinegar should not be added until the beans have softened, as these ingredients may toughen the skin.

Conversely, if a very soft bean is desired for a spread or dip, such as hummus or a mashed chickpea side dish, a small amount of baking soda (a base) can be added to the soaking and/or cooking water. Fresh dried beans will likely turn mushy if baking soda is added to the cooking liquid, so be judicious in this approach.

When there is not time to soak and cook, my go-to legume is lentils. Speckled green French lentils hold their shape when cooked and are great served warm with a vinaigrette, or mixed into a grain such as rice or wheat berries for a filling side dish.

The simple brown lentil can be transformed by fresh ginger, herbs, and a bit of butter into an elegant and creamy accompaniment to a piece of grilled salmon or chicken.

But when I just want a quick pan of refried beans to serve with rice, I go to my pantry stocked with canned beans. That's me being flexitarian.

Makes 4 servings

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For the mashed chickpeas:

1½ cups dried chick-peas, soaked over-night

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil

2 to 3 tablespoons quick preserved lemon, minced fine (or substitute the rind and juice of half a lemon and 1 clove of garlic minced fine)

For meatballs:

1 pound ground lamb

3 to 4 tablespoons zhoug (see recipe)

1/2 to 1 teaspoon salt, to taste

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1. To make the mashed chickpeas: Place the chickpeas in a saucepan with the baking soda and enough water to cover by several inches. Bring to a boil and add 1 teaspoon of salt. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 35 to 60 minutes until the chickpeas are quite tender.

2. Stir several times and scoop off with a slotted spoon any skins that float to the surface. Drain and reserve the cooking liquid.

3. Add the olive oil, preserved lemon, and ¼ cup of the cooking liquid and smash the chickpeas with a potato masher or the back of a fork until about half of the chickpeas are smooth and the remaining chickpeas are in pieces. This should be quite chunky. Add more liquid or olive oil as desired. Taste and adjust seasoning.

4. To make meatballs: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Line a small baking sheet with foil.

5. In a medium bowl place the lamb, the zhoug, and the salt and mix well with your hands or a fork until the herb and spice mixture is evenly distributed.

6. Form 20 1-inch meatballs and place on prepared pan. Cook in the center of the hot oven, agitating the pan gently once or twice during cooking until the meatballs are well browned. Remove from oven. Reserve the juices.

7. To serve: Spread approximately ½ to 2/3 cup mashed chickpeas onto each serving plate with the back of a spoon. Mound four or five meatballs on top. Garnish with a spoonful of zhoug and a thin slice of preserved lemon or lemon wedge. Drizzle a bit of the lamb juices from the pan over each portion.

Per serving: 556 calories, 47 grams protein, 47 grams carbohydrates, 8 grams sugar, 20 grams fat, 102 milligrams cholesterol, 493 milligrams sodium, 13 grams dietary fiber.EndText

Makes 4 to 6 servings

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2 scallions, minced

3/4 cup Italian parsley (loosely packed leaves and chopped stems)

½ cup cilantro (loosely packed leaves and stems)

2 clove garlic, minced

2 jalapeños, stem removed, coarsely chopped (leave seeds if you like spice)

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground cardamon

¼ cup olive oil

2 to 3 tablespoons water

Salt and pepper

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1. Add all ingredients to the bowl of a small food processor. Pulse until mixed well but not pureed.

2. Alternatively, you can mince the parsley, cilantro, garlic, and jalapeño together by hand on a cutting board until quite fine. Add these chopped vegetables to a bowl, stir in the spices, oil, and water. Season well with salt and pepper.

Per serving (based on 6): 82 calories, 1 gram protein, 2 grams carbohydrates, no sugar, 9 grams fat, no cholesterol, 129 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.EndText

Makes 4 servings

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For the lentils:

1 cup dried green lentils

2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

Salt

1 small bay leaf

1 teaspoon herbes de Provence mix (or mix your own blend of thyme, rosemary, lavender, and savory)

3 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon freshly grated peeled ginger root

Freshly ground pepper

1 cup frizzled leeks or onions (see below)

For the frizzled leeks:

1/2 cup olive oil

1 1/2 cups clean slices leeks (or onions)

Salt and freshly ground pepper

For the salmon and potatoes:

4 pieces of salmon fillet, each approximately 3 to 5 ounces

2 large russet or 4 small-medium Yukon gold potatoes

1/4 cup olive oil

Salt and pepper

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1. Place the lentils in a small saucepan. Cover by a few inches with cool water. Add the garlic, salt, bay leaf, and herb mix and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for 20 to 30 minutes or until lentils are soft and almost mushy. Drain and reserve the cooking liquid. Add the butter, grated ginger, and about 1/3 cup of the reserved cooking liquid and stir. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Before serving rewarm, add more reserved liquid as needed to make a soft but not soupy consistency, and stir in most of the frizzled leeks (see below) just before serving. Reserve a few leeks to sprinkle on top.

2. To make the frizzled leeks: Heat the oil in the pan until a piece of leek dropped in sizzles on contact. Add half the leeks and stir carefully while cooking. Allow to brown and remove with a slotted spoon to a mesh strainer placed over a bowl to allow more of the oil to drain. Add the remaining leeks and fry until they are also brown; remove from the hot oil. Season with salt and pepper.

3. To make salmon and potatoes: Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Place the salmon skin side down on a baking sheet or dish. Slice the potatoes into thin rounds or cubes. Toss the potatoes in olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and place alongside the salmon, or on their own baking sheet. Place on the lower rack of the hot oven for 8 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the salmon. Remove the potato pan from the oven and turn the potatoes; they should be well browned on the bottom side and just about cooked through. Return to the oven for 3 to 5 more minutes or until the salmon is just cooked through (stick a thin knife into the center if you aren't sure) and the potatoes are crisped and soft.

4. Serve the salmon on a bed of creamy lentils with the crisped potatoes alongside and a few frizzled leeks scattered on top.

Per serving: 768 calories, 41 grams protein, 63 grams carbohydrates, 6 grams sugar, 40 grams fat, 94 milligrams cholesterol, 294 milligrams sodium, 20 grams dietary fiber.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

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1 teaspoon salt

1 cup dried cannellini beans soaked over-night and drained

3 cups chopped assorted root vegetables: carrots, celery root, turnips, parsnips, rutabaga

1 cup chopped onion

3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil

4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 stalks celery halved lengthwise and sliced thin

1 tablespoon rosemary

4 to 5 cups rich chicken or vegetable stock

1-inch end of a hunk of Parmesan cheese (rind end or heel)

1 cup chopped broccoli rabe (or thinly sliced chard)

3 to 4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese, optional

Chopped parsley, optional

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1. In a medium saucepan, place the beans and 1 teaspoon of salt with enough water to cover by a few inches. Bring to a boil and then turn heat down to a simmer and precook beans for 20 to 30 minutes until not quite tender. Drain the cooking liquid from the pan.

2. While the beans are cooking heat the oven to 425 degrees. Toss the root vegetables and the onion with the olive oil and spread on a rimmed baking sheet. Season well with salt and pepper. Place in the oven and cook for 15 to 20 minutes until the vegetables are browned and softened. Add the garlic for the last 5 minutes in the oven.

3. Add these roasted vegetables along with the celery, rosemary, stock, and heel of cheese to the drained beans. Cook for 30 to 40 minutes, stirring regularly until the beans are soft.

4. Five to 10 minutes before serving, add the chopped broccoli rabe or chard and let cook until just soft or wilted. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Serve with lots of freshly ground black pepper, a sprinkle of grated cheese, and chopped parsley as desired. (For a soupier dish use more stock.)

Per serving (based on 6): 210 calories, 10 grams protein, 28 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams sugar, 9 grams fat, 2 milligrams cholesterol, 990 milligrams sodium, 10 grams dietary fiber.

Yield approximately 21/2 cups, or 4 to 5 servings

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1 cup dried chickpeas

¼ teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup maple syrup

1/2 cup granulated sugar plus 3 tablespoons

3 to 4 tablespoons honey

2 to 3 tablespoons mild-flavored olive oil

2 tablespoons raw sesame seeds

Sea salt

Pinch of Aleppo pepper or cayenne, optional

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1. Soak the chickpeas overnight. Rinse. Place in a saucepan with enough fresh water to cover by several inches. Add the baking soda and bring to a boil. Simmer for 20 minutes or so and add 1 teaspoon of salt. Continue cooking for 30 to 60 more minutes until tender but not at all mushy. Stir to agitate several times during cooking and skim off any skins that float to the surface. Drain.

2. Return to the saucepan and add the maple syrup and 1/2 cup of sugar. Cook over low heat until the sugar dissolves and the resulting syrup is absorbed into the chickpeas. Remove from heat and stir in the oil and remaining 3 tablespoons sugar. Preheat oven to 300 degrees.

3. Spread the glazed chickpeas on a baking sheet lined with parchment or a nonstick mat. Bake for 30 to 45 minutes, shaking from time to time until the chickpeas are almost dry and lightly browned. Remove from oven, drizzle with the honey, and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Toss well with a rubber spatula to cover evenly. Sprinkle with salt (and pepper if using) and spread them out on the pan. Turn oven off, and return pan to the oven as it cools.

Per serving (based on 5): 279 calories, 8 grams protein, 42 grams carbohydrates, 19 grams sugar, 10 grams fat, no cholesterol, 540 milligrams sodium, 7 grams dietary fiber.