Indian food: No fear

With its myriad spices, hard-to-find ingredients, and layered flavors, Indian food may be the final frontier for the American kitchen.

"I think people are intimidated by Indian food because there are so many unknowns," says Haneeda Riaz, owner of Haneeda's Kitchen, a Glen Mills-based cooking school focused on Indian cuisine. "They might know the food but they don't know how it's made."

Otherwise intrepid cooks and eaters - the kind of people who've incorporated creme fraiche and paella into their at-home repertoire, the kind of people who will happily order a fiery plate of vindaloo at a restaurant - still seem to shy away from making their own masalas.

This anxiety runs deep, but it's not for a lack of exposure to Indian food. Riaz's students typically come to the school already familiar with biryanis, naans, and curries. Some have traveled to India on business and want to re-create what they've had there, while others have been introduced to Indian food at restaurants.

In fact, interest in Indian food may be at an all-time high in the Philadelphia region, thanks to an increasing number of eateries scattered through the city and suburbs. "In the past three or four years, there has been an increased awareness of all things Indian - our clothes, our movies, our culture," says Munish Narula, owner of the popular Tiffin chain of restaurants, as well as an upscale restaurant called Tashan that is set to open in April in South Philadelphia. "The food itself is becoming more popular - maybe not mainstream but definitely more accepted."

Narula says that in the days after Slumdog Millionaire swept the Oscars in 2009, Tiffin saw an exponential increase in orders. "I can't prove it, but I think we could say there's been a Slumdog effect."

Meanwhile, as interest in Indian eating has grown, so, too have the shelves of helpful cookbooks offering to demystify its culinary traditions. The last year alone has seen the release of Sanjeev Kapoor's How to Cook Indian (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2011), Vij's at Home (Douglas & McIntyre, 2010), Anjum's New Indian (Wiley, 2010), Fish Indian Style (Absolute, 2010), Indian Superfood (Absolute, 2010), India: The Cookbook (Phaidon, 2010), and The Indian Slow Cooker (Agate Surrey, 2010). Even the doyenne of Indian cuisine, Madhur Jaffrey, has introduced her own simplified versions of South Asian recipes in At Home With Madhur Jaffrey (Knopf, 2010).

Emphasizing vegetarian meals, lentils, nuts, and spices such as turmeric, cumin, and chiles, Indian food is also increasingly recognized as a healthful cuisine, which has only added to its appeal for everyday eating.

The good news about Indian cookery is that no special equipment is needed. "No one in the U.S. has a tandoor in their house. Most recipes can be made with regular pots and pans," Narula says. A wok and a cast-iron pan can be useful.

Cooking instructor Riaz says she relies on a pressure cooker to make dals quickly during the week, but it's not necessary for the more casual cook.

Unfamiliar ingredients such as black gram lentils, tamarind paste, and ajwain have been a stumbling block for people who don't frequent Indian markets. "One of the biggest challenges I hear from foodies is that they can't find ingredients for certain recipes," Narula says. Seizing on an opportunity, Tiffin is now selling spices including mace, black masala, and star anise. "But we're not the only ones. The last time I was in Whole Foods, I saw there was half an aisle devoted to Indian products."

Experts advocating for simplified Indian cooking at home say that this should not deter hopeful cooks, as not every single spice is essential. In Vij's at Home, some spices are listed as optional, while Jaffrey relates that in her latest book she has whittled down the ingredient lists to a "smaller palette of spices."

The building blocks of Indian flavors can be achieved with a few accessible ingredients. "My strategy is that you just need to stock your pantry for Indian cooking," Riaz says. In her must-have category are coriander, turmeric, cumin, chili powder, and garam masala. "With these things you can make an Indian chicken dish for dinner any night."

At the heart of Indian cookery are some basic techniques: A curry starts with browning wet aromatics such as onion, garlic, and ginger before adding dry spices and finally meat or vegetables. "It's like French cooking, where you start with a bouquet garni," Narula says. "We use onions and tomatoes and that's the basis of 80 percent of the things we make."

Spices are added to very hot oil; when they pop, their flavor has been released. Whole spices can be dry-toasted in a pan, then ground in a coffee grinder or a mortar and pestle. Sauces are thickened with yogurt, tomatoes, coconut, and/or spice pastes. Spices such as saffron and turmeric are used, sparingly, to add color.

Once these techniques are understood, it's a matter of understanding the flavors and the natural affinity between ingredients. Some masalas, Riaz says, go with cauliflower while others go with potatoes. In general, though, Indian cooking is forgiving and readily adaptable to improvisation.

The recipes in this new generation of cookbooks, at least, are downright easy: Jaffrey's spinach and tomatoes sauteed with the mild cheese paneer (sold in Indian groceries and at Whole Foods) comes together in minutes.

"My advice is don't be afraid. Once you start cooking it's not that difficult," Narula says. "Maybe it's a bit more involved. But once you get over the initial fear, it's a fun cuisine to cook."

Though Riaz herself is from the southern city of Chennai, her classes and demonstrations cover all regional styles of cooking as well as vegetarian and restaurant favorites. For her students it can be a revelation that all of these dishes - from dosas to kheer - can be made at home.

However, those accustomed to Indian food from restaurant kitchens might be surprised by the distinct textures, colors, and flavors of a lamb saag or dal that comes out of a home kitchen. As a rule, home-cooked food is lighter, less greasy, and less salty. "At home you use fresh ingredients and you use less oil," Riaz says. "You can make your own masalas as opposed to using something in a bottle that's been sitting around for a while."

Riaz doesn't think there's much comparison between the professional product and the Indian food one can prepare at home. "I don't really like to eat at Indian restaurants. I'd rather go out for Italian or Mexican."

Makes 4 to 6 servings

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1 cup arhar dal (or any other split peas), washed and drained

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

11/2 teaspoons salt

1/4-3/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

3 tablespoons olive or canola oil or ghee

2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds

1/2 teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds

15-20 fresh curry leaves, or 10 fresh basil leaves

1 medium onion, chopped

2 medium tomatoes, chopped

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1.   Put the dal and 4½ cups water in a medium pan. Bring to a boil and remove the froth that rises to the top. Turn heat to low and add the turmeric. Stir, cover partially, and simmer gently for an hour. Add the salt and cayenne. Stir. Cover partially again and simmer gently for about 10 minutes or until you finish the next step.

2.   Meanwhile, heat the oil in a medium frying pan over medium heat. When it is very hot, put in the cumin and mustard seeds. As soon as the mustard seeds pop, a matter of seconds, add the curry leaves and onion. Stir and fry until the onions have softened a bit and turned brown at the edges. Add the tomatoes and stir on medium-low heat until the tomatoes have softened a bit also, about 2 minutes. Pour the contents of the frying pan into the pan with the dal and stir them in.

Per serving (based on 6): 191 calories, 9 grams protein, 24 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams sugar, 8 grams fat, no cholesterol, 591 milligrams sodium, 9 grams dietary fiber.

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Makes 4-6 servings

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11/2 pounds fresh spinach with stems, washed and chopped in 1/2-inch pieces

10 ounces paneer

1/3 cup cooking oil

2 tablespoons chopped garlic

11/2 cups canned chopped tomatoes

1 teaspoon turmeric

1 to 2 teaspoons salt

1 tablespoon ground cumin

1/2 tablespoon ground

coriander

5 cloves (optional)

1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper (optional)

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1.   Place washed, chopped spinach in a colander and allow any extra water to drain while you cook the masala.

2.   Cut paneer into bite-sized dice and set aside.

3.   Heat oil in a medium pot on medium-high for 45 seconds. Add garlic and saute for 1 to 2 minutes, or until golden brown. Stir in tomatoes. Add turmeric, salt, cumin, coriander, cloves, and cayenne and saute for 3 to 4 minutes, or until oil glistens on top. Stir in spinach and paneer and mix well. Don't worry if paneer cubes start to crumble. Cover and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until spinach has wilted.

Per serving (based on 6): 192 calories, 10 grams protein, 9 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams sugar, 14 grams fat, 4 milligrams cholesterol, 673 milligrams sodium, 3 grams dietary fiber.

Makes 4 servings

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6 large cloves of garlic, peeled

 1/2-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled

4 medium tomatoes, chopped

1 cup plain yogurt

4 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 brown cardamom pods

3 cloves

2-inch piece cinnamon stick

2 green cardamom pods

10 black peppercorns

2 bay leaves

Salt to taste

1/2 to 3/4 teaspoons pure red chile powder

11/2 pounds cubed lamb from bone-in leg or shoulder

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1.   Using a blender, make a fine paste of the garlic and ginger, adding a little water to help. Set aside. Puree the tomatoes with the yogurt.

2.   Heat the oil in a large nonstick pan and add the whole spices and bay leaves. Let them sizzle for 10 seconds, then add the ginger and garlic paste. Cook, stirring, over medium heat for 1 or 2 minutes, or until the water has evaporated and the paste has had a chance to fry for 20 seconds. Add the salt and red chile powder, give the pot a good stir, then add the yogurt and tomato mixture and bring to a boil while stirring constantly to make sure that the yogurt does not split. Stir in the lamb and cook over a high heat, stirring for 5-6 minutes, then bring to a boil. Cook, covered, over low heat until the lamb is tender, 45-55 minutes.

3.   Take off the lid, turn up the heat, and toss and turn the meat in the thickening gravy. This is an important step and will add depth to the curry. If there is little gravy in the pan, it is worth adding a good splash of water at this stage. Reduce to a depth of just 1/3 inch of gravy in the pan. Once done, add enough water from a recently boiled kettle to make a creamy gravy.

Per serving: 499 calories, 53 grams protein, 12 grams carbohydrates, 8 grams sugar, 26 grams fat, 152 milligrams cholesterol, 166 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.

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Makes 4 to 5 servings

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11/2 pounds boneless chicken breast, medium pieces

1 tablespoon butter

Marinade for chicken:

2 tablespoons oil

1/2 teaspoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon garam masala

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Salt

Sauce:

2 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon ginger garlic paste

 1/2 teaspoon garam masala

1/2 teaspoon chili powder

1 8-ounce can tomato sauce

Salt

 1/4 cup sour cream

1 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons cashew nuts ground into a powder in a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle

Orange food color (optional)

1/2 teaspoon sugar

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1. Marinate the chicken and let it sit in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.

2. Heat butter in a pan. Add chicken pieces, cover and let simmer until three-quarters cooked, about 8 minutes on medium low heat. Set aside.

3. In the meantime, prepare the sauce. Heat butter in a pan. Add the ginger garlic paste and fry well. Add in the garam masala and chili powder. Mix well and let it cook a few minutes.

4. Pour in the tomato sauce and add some salt and cook for about 5 minutes. Slowly add the sour cream, heavy cream, cashew nut powder, orange food color, and sugar. Keep stirring.

5. When the gravy is thick and creamy add the mostly cooked chicken pieces and let the mixture simmer till the chicken is cooked through. Enjoy hot with naan, roti, or rice.

From Haneeda Riaz

Per serving (based on 5): 510 calories, 42 grams protein, 6 grams carbohydrates, 3 grams sugar, 36 grams fat, 177 milligrams cholesterol, 426 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.

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Makes 4 to 5 servingsEndTextStartText

1½ cups whole milk

Powdered cardamom (seeds of 1 cardamom powdered)

1 pinch saffron

1½ cups overcooked, slightly mashed basmati rice

7 ounces sweetened

condensed milk (add more or less according to taste)

1 tablespoon slivered

almonds

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1. Bring the milk to a boil in a heavy pan along with the cardamom powder and saffron.

2. Add the cooked basmati rice and let it simmer for a few minutes. Keep stirring to avoid any lumps.

3. Pour in the sweetened condensed milk and stir carefully to prevent burning. Bring to a boil and remove from heat.

4. Transfer to a serving bowl and chill.

5. Garnish with slivered almonds before serving.

Per serving (based on 5): 381 calories, 10 grams protein, 70 grams carbohydrates, 26 grams sugar, 7 grams fat, 21 milligrams cholesterol, 83 milligrams sodium, 1 gram dietary fiber.