Doma a fine Callowhill eatery-row addition: It's a sleek, casual BYOB, but you might want to BYOG

If you have three young children and a restaurant, you'd think your life was busy enough. But when Robert and Patti Moon, who have owned Shiroi Hana, in Center City, since 1995, sent the last toddler to Montessori school, they figured it was time to nurture another restaurant.

Located on what is becoming a nice stretch of diverse eateries on Callowhill Street, Doma opened its doors about a month ago.

This is a more casual venue than Shiroi Hana and offers an interesting menu of cold and hot appetizers that are perfect plates for sharing. Each is beautifully presented and shows off a contemporary fusion.

The Hamachi crudo - composed of yellowtail and wasabi edamame puree, and seasoned with jalapeño, cilantro and yuzu ($9) - was a good example of that fusion. The texture of the fish was accented by the puree, and that hit of pepper heat with the acidity of the yuzu was a perfect balance.

The Octopus Ceviche with mango salsa ($7) also blended textures, colors and shapes to create a dish that appeals to all the senses. And the Lobster Roll Special ($13) artfully displayed a small tail in both tempura and a tasty seasoned roll.

Don't miss the traditional Okonomiyaki ($7). This street-food fare is best described as a cross between a seafood pancake and omelet. It was topped with fish flakes so thin that they flutter on top of the dish, offering a kinetic touch along with a slight perfume.

My panel and I found that the Sashimi sampler ($20) was good, but not remarkable. The tuna was judged flabby in texture by all tasters, and only the red snapper with was truly stellar.

The signature Korean dish, Bibimbap, came in a hot stone pot, and while it had the requisite rice crust on the bottom, it lacked a little sizzle. We opted for the beef and egg yolk ($13) version, and the general consensus was that it lacked flavor even when doused with the accompanying sauce.

All of the tasters enjoyed the Nabeyaki Udon Noodle Soup ($13). It came with a side of tempura vegetables, but the best part was the poached egg that cooked in the broth. When the yolk burst it added a creaminess to the soup. I have developed an addiction to the Sichimi pepper condiment and wish that this dish was on the lunch menu, though.

If you are looking for Hungry Man portions, the Beef Teriyaki Dinner Bento Box ($36) would fit the bill. Besides the generous box, it came with soup or salad, white rice and ice cream for dessert. The beef was a generous portion with a nice balance of sweet and spice in the sauce. Less interesting was the pickled cabbage it sat on.

The Bento also offered four pieces of sushi and spicy tuna roll. As with the sashimi, the tuna was less than stellar and the rice was a disappointment. It needed stickiness to hold it together, and it lacked that slight hint of vinegar that complements the fish. However, the tempura was light, crisp and fresh.

The surprise in the box was how good the shrimp shumai were. Too many frozen supermarket varieties have clouded the reputation of this dumpling that can have a fresh shrimp taste and light texture.

There's a hefty dessert menu with some nice selections prepared by Patti Moon. The banana tempura and the crème brulee were enticing but, personally, something really sweet after raw fish doesn't appeal.

And as one of the taste panel said, "The bananas sound good, but I'm all tempura'ed out."

Instead, we opted for the mango ice cream that came as part of the Bento Box. It was beautifully served in an orange half and was the light, refreshing taste our palates craved at that moment.

One day, though, I vow to try that banana tempura with caramel and homemade hot fudge sauce over ice cream.

Doma is beautifully appointed with fresh, clean lines. The sleek, white dinnerware showed off the presentation of the food and fit the atmosphere perfectly.

Less perfect were the wine glasses. The smaller glasses were chosen to fit on the table with multiple dishes, but I would suggest getting stemless wine glasses that have a decent bowl.

I wouldn't have minded the corkage fee that bothered so many customers if there was an obvious expense the restaurant was incurring in decent glassware. For now, Doma has dispensed with the fee, but you might want to consider BYOG - bring your own glass.