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Ladder 15's lamb empanadas

Queen Village's loss is a Rittenhouse Square adventure eater's gain now that David Ansill, who this summer sadly shuttered his eponymous bistro, Ansill, recently landed at Ladder 15. The adventurous chef, noted for his talent with spare-parts cooking, is a major kitchen upgrade for this former firehouse-turned-trendy Market Street happy-hour hall.

Queen Village's loss is a Rittenhouse Square adventure eater's gain now that David Ansill, who this summer sadly shuttered his eponymous bistro, Ansill, recently landed at Ladder 15. The adventurous chef, noted for his talent with spare-parts cooking, is a major kitchen upgrade for this former firehouse-turned-trendy Market Street happy-hour hall.

The menu of bar snacks and small plates covers plenty of Ansill-esque hits, from those kimchi-spiced Korean tacos to braised pork belly BLT's and decadent burgers topped with short ribs and a side of marrow bone. My new favorite nibble, though, are the fried dumpling-like empanadas stuffed with curry-braised lamb that come with a tangy chutney of gingery apples and sherry-plumped currants. Next up for this striving bar are some more Pif-like weekly specials (crispy pig's feet; tartare), and some long overdue craft-brew improvements to the otherwise commercial beer taps.

- Craig LaBan

Curried lamb empanadas, Ladder 15, 1528 Sansom St., 215-964-9755; www.ladder15philly.com.