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GoodTaste

Buns of pork! Those who expected Doma (Korean for "cutting board") to be a clone of its sister restaurant, Shiroi Hana, the 15th Street sushi bar, have been a bit surprised - and not unpleasantly. Sushi still dominates the menu here, but there's a distinctive accent of chef-owner Robert Moon's native Korea as well, especially in the rice dishes, the (bulgogi) Bento Box, and appetizers.

Buns of pork!

Those who expected Doma (Korean for "cutting board") to be a clone of its sister restaurant, Shiroi Hana, the 15th Street sushi bar, have been a bit surprised - and not unpleasantly. Sushi still dominates the menu here, but there's a distinctive accent of chef-owner Robert Moon's native Korea as well, especially in the rice dishes, the (bulgogi) Bento Box, and appetizers.

One of our favorites is the soft steamed buns with a touch of sweet hoisin sauce folded over generous slices of perfectly tender (but not overly fatty), slow-braised pork belly. The dish gets its crunch from chips of mildly pickled cucumber, reminiscent of the pickle-and-brisket sandwiches featured at Texas barbecue joints. (Non-pork-eaters can opt for buns stuffed with sauteed shiitake mushrooms.)

- Rick Nichols

Steamed pork belly buns, $7 for two, Doma, 1822 Callowhill St., 215-564-1114.