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GoodTaste

As South Philly's dynamic Asian community continues to diversify, its authentic restaurants have begun to spread their wings, too, beyond the usual neighborhood enclaves and the Washington Avenue corridor. The cheery new Kavei is a prime example.

Sweet and spicy shrimp

As South Philly's dynamic Asian community continues to diversify, its authentic restaurants have begun to spread their wings, too, beyond the usual neighborhood enclaves and the Washington Avenue corridor. The cheery new Kavei is a prime example.

Hidden in a former strip-mall pho shop behind Toys R Us on Oregon Avenue, this pan-Asian kitchen from former Cafe de Laos owner Michael Wansawang Raethong serves up tastes of Laos (house-made lemongrass sausages), Vietnam (pho), and Cambodia (bitter leaves with grilled fish), which is Kavei's special focus. One of my favorites, though, came from the menu's Thai side. Called goon sarong, it brings a plate of large shrimp dramatically wrapped in crispy gowns of deep-fried egg noodles. With a sweet and spicy dip, they're a fun bite of entry into a menu that's full of exotic flavors worth exploring.

- Craig LaBan
Goon sarong, $7.95, Kavei, 320 Oregon Ave., 215-952-6688; www.kaveirestaurant.com