Michael Pollan's new pocket guide to eating

Here in the too-much-of-a-good-thing department, we wondered if the world really needed additional advice from über-foodster Michael Pollan.

Sure, his top-selling 2006 offering The Omnivore's Dilemma: The Secrets Behind What You Eat was on most everybody's top 10 list; and his 2008 In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto won the James Beard Award.

But we were concerned that his latest, Food Rules: An Eater's Manual (published directly in paperback, 2009), might just rehash previously stated concepts.

The verdict: For some, this one's a must-have.

At a time when "expert" advice has never been so confusing, Pollan's educated simplicity is most welcome. Ditto his brevity and wit.

Pollan says all his advice might be summed up in seven words: "Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants."

But in this 140-page pocket paperback (Penguin Press, $11), he expands a bit.

What should we eat? Food. Not ingredients a third grader cannot pronounce.

Where should we get it? From growers. Not from drive-ins.

How should we eat? At the dinner table in the company of friends and family. Not alone in front of the television, and not while driving.

And what if we can't manage all of that? Be flexible, not obsessive.

In an age of conflicting health advice, Rules is especially helpful for anyone who meant to read Pollan's other work but was too busy.

Indeed, Pollan's earlier scholarship made this book's simplicity possible. Much of the science behind these 64 Rules is laid out in In Defense of Food.

As an antidote to the so-called Western diet, which left us obese, diabetic, and at risk for cardiovascular disease and cancer, Pollan offers the wisdom of the grandmothers - from the Netherlands, China, and Italy.

Summarizing that perspective: A land with lots of herring can get along with few doctors; "The whiter the bread, the sooner you'll be dead"; and better to pay the grocer than the doctor.

And "If you're not hungry enough to eat an apple, then you're not hungry" is another way of saying that food is a costly antidepressant.

In that spirit, we offer five recipes.

Three are from EatingWell: 500 Calorie Dinners, which goes beyond calorie counts with data on salt, cholesterol, carbs, and more so that individuals who need to restrict one but not the other can judge which dishes suit best.

EatingWell's Indian Wok-Seared Chicken and Vegetables draws satisfying flavor, not calories, from spices such as coriander, cumin, and turmeric. Braised Paprika Chicken, from the same book, is a study in slow cooking with fresh ingredients. And the book's Moroccan Vegetable Soup uses meat in moderation, another Pollanism.

Shredded Carrot and Beet Salad, from The Cancer-Fighting Kitchen, exemplifies Rule 25: Eat your colors.

Finally, Firecrackers, from The Elements of Life, is a snack of sesame seeds, walnuts, dates, and dried apricots deep-fried in a wonton wrapper to resemble Chinese firecrackers.

Fried, yes, but in keeping with Rule 39: Eat all the junk food you want as long as you cook it yourself.

And while you're at it, don't forget Rule 51: Spend as much time enjoying the meal as it took to prepare it.

Makes 4 servings

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2 teaspoons coriander seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

1 tablespoon cornstarch

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed  and cut into 1-inch cubes

3 tablespoons canola oil, divided

2 large carrots, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices

1 large green bell pepper, cut into 1-inch squares

1 small red onion, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

4 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced

3 dried red chiles, such as Thai, cayenne, or chile de arbol, stemmed

1 tablespoon lime juice

1/2 cup firmly packed fresh mint leaves, finely chopped

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1. Grind coriander, cumin, and fennel seeds in a spice grinder or a mortar and pestle until the mixture resembles coarsely ground pepper. Transfer to a medium bowl and add cornstarch, salt, and turmeric; stir to combine. Sprinkle over chicken cubes to coat.

2. Heat a wok or a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons oil. When the oil is shimmering, add carrots, bell pepper, onion, garlic, and chiles. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables begin to brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

3. Reduce heat to medium-high and add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the pan. Add the chicken pieces, a few at a time, and any remaining seasonings from the bowl. Cook, stirring, until the chicken is no longer pink in the middle, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the vegetables, lime juice and mint and cook until heated through, about 30 seconds. Serve over brown rice.

Per serving: 271 calories, 25 grams protein, 13 grams carbohydrates, 14 grams fat, 63 milligrams cholesterol, 524 milligrams sodium, 4 grams dietary fiber.

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Makes 6 servings

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2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, finely diced

2 teaspoons ground turmeric

1 pound beef stew meat or lamb stew meat, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch cubes

6 cups reduced-sodium beef broth or water

1 14-ounce can diced  tomatoes

2 small turnips, peeled and diced

2 carrots, diced

2 stalks celery with leaves, thinly sliced

Pinch of saffron threads

12 sprigs flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish

8 sprigs cilantro, plus more for garnish

1 large zucchini, peeled and  cut into 1/4-inch dice

2 ounces angel-hair pasta, broken into small pieces

1/4-2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspooon black pepper

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1. Heat oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onion and turmeric; stir to coat. Add meat and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Add broth (or water), tomatoes and their juice, turnips, carrots, celery, and saffron. Tie parsley and cilantro sprigs together with kitchen string and add to the pot. Bring the soup to a boil. Cover and reduce to a simmer. Cook until the meat is tender, 45 to 50 minutes.

2. Stir in zucchini and cook, covered, until soft, 8 to 10 minutes. Add pasta and cook until soft, 4 to 10 minutes, depending on the type of pasta. Discard the parsley and cilantro sprigs. Season with salt (start with 1/4 teaspoon if you're using broth; add more if you're using water) and pepper. Serve sprinkled with parsley and/or cilantro leaves, if desired.

Per serving: 237 calories, 21 grams protein, 19 grams carbohydrates, 8 grams fat, 37 milligrams cholesterol, 713 milligrams sodium, 4 grams dietary fiber.

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Makes 6 servings

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2 tablespoons canola oil

1 tablespoon butter

4 cups finely diced onions

Pinch of sugar

1 cup diced red bell pepper

1/2 cup diced green bell pepper

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 tablespoons sweet paprika

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper

3-3 1/2 pounds bone-in chicken pieces, skin removed (if using chicken breasts, cut in half  crosswise)

3/4 teaspoon coarse salt, divided

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon dried marjoram

1 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth

1/2 cup reduced-fat sour cream

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons finely minced fresh parsley, dill, or chives

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1. Heat oil and butter in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add onions and sprinkle with sugar. Cook, stirring often, until very soft, 10 to 15 minutes.

2. Stir in bell peppers, tomato paste, paprika, and crushed red pepper. Season chicken with 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper; stir gently into the pot. Sprinkle with marjoram and add broth. Cover with a tight-fitting lid; simmer over medium-low heat until the chicken is very tender, about 50 minutes

3. Whisk sour cream, flour, and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt in a small bowl until smooth. Transfer the chicken to a plate. Stir the sour cream mixture into the sauce; simmer, stirring, until it coats the spoon. Return the chicken to the pot and reheat on low, about 1 minute. Garnish with herbs.

Per serving: 327 calories, 35 grams protein, 17 grams carbohydrates, 13 grams fat, 116 milligrams cholesterol, 385 milligrams sodium, 4 grams dietary fiber.

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Makes 4 servings

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2 tablespoons freshly squeezed orange juice

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh ginger

1/4 teaspoon sea salt

1 cup peeled and shredded carrot

1 cup peeled and shredded red beet

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

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1. Whisk the orange juice, lemon juice, olive oil, ginger, and salt together until thoroughly combined.

2. Put the carrots in a mixing bowl, drizzle with half of the dressing, and toss until evenly coated. Place the carrots on one side of a shallow serving bowl.

3. Put the beets in the mixing bowl, drizzle with the remaining dressing, and toss until evenly coated. Place the beets in the serving bowl next to the carrots for a beautiful contrast of red and orange. Top with the chopped mint before serving.

Per serving: 53 calories, 1 gram protein, 7 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fat, no cholesterol, 194 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.

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Makes 18 to 20 pieces or 6 to 8 servings

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1/4 cup black or white sesame seeds, toasted in a small skillet over medium heat until fragrant

1/2 cup finely chopped walnuts

3/4 cup finely chopped dates

3 to 4 dried apricots, minced

Pinch of salt

Vegetable oil spray

1 package wonton wrappers (about 40 sheets)

4 cups safflower, sunflower, or soybean oil

2 tablespoons confectioner's sugar

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1. In a medium bowl, combine the sesame seeds, walnuts, dates, apricots, and salt. Lightly spray your hands with vegetable oil. Pick up a teaspoon or more of the mixture and roll it into a 2-inch-long, 1/4-inch-wide sausage. Place on a plate. Repeat until the mixture is used up.

2. Place a wonton wrapper on the work surface in front of you with a corner pointing toward you. Position one of the "sausages" on that corner. Roll the wrapper over the filling toward the top, making a long cylinder. Dab a bit of water on a wrapper to seal it. Twist or fold each side of the cylinder slightly to shape it like a candy wrapper. Repeat with the remaining wrappers and filling

3. Heat the oil in a wok or large skillet over high heat. Place a strainer lined with several layers of paper towels nearby. Test the oil for readiness by putting a wooden chopstick in it. When bubbles form around the chopstick, the oil is ready. Slide several firecrackers into the hot oil and deep-fry until golden. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer them to the paper towels to drain. Repeat with the remaining firecrackers.

4. Transfer the firecrackers to a plate and dust with the confectioners' sugar. Serve warm or cold. These will keep in an airtight container or zip-top plastic bag for several days.

5. Leftover wonton wrappers can also be deep-fried and sprinkled with confectioners' sugar.

Per serving (based on 8): 267 calories, 5 grams protein, 37 grams carbohydrates, 13 grams fat, 3 milligrams cholesterol, 121 milligrams sodium, 3 grams dietary fiber.

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