Looking for the right wine? No problem

All the pressure should land on the chef at Thanksgiving, because when it comes to bringing the wine, there are no "wrong" answers. After all, this holiday meal is typically such a riot of divergent flavors, from tart cranberries to sweet potatoes to the meaty bird and its lusty dressing, that it's impossible for a single wine to match the feast's many moods.

Even better news: this is a meal where value wines are the preferable choice. The sheer diversity and intensity of the table's flavors will inevitably drown the grandest of grand cru bottles. So leave the fancy wines in the cellar until that next trip to the BYO. Plus, let's be honest. How many of the folks at your family gathering are really going to know the difference?

That doesn't mean it has to be box wines for the holiday. I simply aim for a wide range of wines with bold personalities that match the spirited flavors of the meal - and at prices that will quench a crowd at a reasonable cost.

Here a diverse selection of good values available in Pennsylvania for less than $20. Many of them are also available in New Jersey and Delaware.

Red

Fess Parker 2005 Syrah (code 20755), $19.99: Rhone-style wines are a longtime favorite for the meatier portions of the meal, and this stellar American rendition is no exception. It has a deep core of dark fruit, but also a savory edge of earth, eucalyptus, roasted meat and herbs (bay leaves?) that speaks to the giblet gravy and sausage stuffing.

Duckhorn Parajaxx 2007 Zinfandel (code 20656) $19.99: Zesty red zin is the perfect reply to the smoky flavor of my grilled turkey and the tartness of cranberry relish. There are tons of great values in this grape (Rosenblum, Ridge, and Seghesio are all sure bets), but I like the sale price on this Duckhorn, which wraps a sparkle of spice and tart red fruit in a plush Napa package of polished cocoa and vanilla.

Gundlach Bundschu Rhinefarm 2005 pinot noir (code 15601) $17.99; Gallo Family Sonoma Reserve 2006 pinot noir (code 20859), $8.99: When it's right, pinot is the ultimate compromiser grape - able to complement both the white and dark meat on your plate. I loved both the finesse and guts of this Gundlach, which weaves pretty notes (cherries, cocoa, violets, pomegranate) with earthy ones (mushrooms, cracked pepper, soil) into one velvety sip. The Gallo isn't quite as polished, but it's a good bargain at this price with a balanced blast of ripe raspberries, vanilla softness and a food-friendly brightness on the finish.

Domaine Henry Fessy Morgon Cru Beaujolais 2007 (code 015831), $13.99: Beaujolais is another longtime darling of the light-red crowd, but I prefer to go with an earthier "cru" bottle than the sugary fruit juice of a softer "nouveau." This bottle of Morgon has a chipper berry brightness, but also a good tannic grip (and a little spice) that should help cut through the richness of the meal.

White

Sokol Blosser Evolution, Lucky Edition (code 9215), $16.99: I always go for something lush and just a shade off-dry in my T-day whites, and this Oregon blend is just that, with nine grapes (from pinot gris to müller-thurgau) whirling into some lip-smacking exotic of tropical fruit and floral blossoms.

Kung Fu Girl Riesling (code 012610), $12.99: The name alone makes this a fun party bottle, but I love this girl best for what's inside (of course!). It's bright and lively with a wink of stone fruit sweetness, but there's a surprising sparkle of spicy white pepper and a bracing squirt of lime that should keep the tastebuds alert. This bottle is mostly available in suburban stores.

D'Arenberg Stump Jump Chardonnay (code 22506), $9.99: If they must have chardonnay (and there are always relatives that must), go for this lightly oaked bottle from a reliable Aussie source. It's well-balanced, likable and juicy.

Dessert

G&M Machmer Bechtheimer Rosengarten Gewurztaminer Eiswein, Rheinhessen 2001 375ml (code 26694), $14.49: Dry Gewurz is another popular exotic white for the savory courses, but this unusual eiswein, picked and crushed while the ripe grapes are still frozen, is an entrancingly sweet finale to the meal - like drinking honeyed peach nectar. It's not as refreshingly tart on the finish as some dessert wines, but it's still magnetically good, and very well-priced.