BookShelf

Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes
nolead ends nolead begins By Bobby Flay with Stephanie Banyas and Sally Jackson
Clarkson Potter. 159 pp. $25.95. nolead ends nolead begins

You might ask why anyone would put out an entire cookbook about the burger. Do we really need a 150-page tome on how to cook a hamburger on the grill? The answer is most definitely yes, and this is it.

It's rare for me to want to cook just about every recipe in a cookbook. But that is exactly what happened after picking up a copy of Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes. In the age of the celebrity-chef who happens to cook, here is Bobby Flay, a chef, who happens to have fallen into celebrity.

Even with his rock-star status, Flay told me at a recent book signing at the King of Prussia Mall (where the line was in the hundreds) that he considered himself a chef/restaurant owner first, spending 80 to 90 percent of his working hours cooking in his restaurants.

And, he said, he applies that same hands-on approach to his cookbooks, not only creating and testing the recipes that are published, but styling the photographs as well.

The book, much like the author, is fun, relaxed, straightforward, and easy to like. It includes burger recipes for ground beef, turkey, salmon, and tuna; fries, chips, shakes, and condiments. It gives terrific information on how to make the actual burger (not too thick, and use your thumb to make a dent in the middle of the patty to ensure even cooking, so it won't puff up in the center.)

But the book is really all about the toppings, offering dozens of ideas for branching out from the familiar lettuce and tomato and for using some regional/cultural creativity.

I tried many of the topping recipes, including the Greek (feta, kalamata olives, tomatoes); Santa Fe (roasted poblano pepper and Monterey jack sauce); Trattoria; Miami (ham, swiss, pickle, mayo/mustard), and the Bolo Burger (Serrano ham, manchego, smoked paprika mayo). Amazingly, they are all different enough that by the end of the week my family was not sick of burgers. In fact, they wanted to try more.

With the recipes drawing inspiration from so many cultures, Flay suggested, why not add a geography lesson to your dinner conversation? You also could use the various toppings to stage a great make-your-own-burger party.

Flay asked whether we had "crunchified" any of our burgers - adding potato chips between the meat and the bun. It's his favorite way to eat a burger and an option at his Bobby's Burger Palace restaurants. You have no idea how happy you can make a child by simply suggesting this.

The other night, I served my children the Trattoria Burger, to a standing ovation. Using ground turkey and my cast-iron grill pan, I cooked the burger according to Flay's instructions and it turned out perfectly. The topping for this burger is basically a caprese salad: mozzarella, tomato, basil, balsamic vinegar, and olive oil, all fresh. My daughter thought it tasted light and summery, and my son gave it a big thumb up (the other hand wouldn't let go of the burger).

I also whipped up the Toasted Almond Milkshake and the result was just like the ice cream treat on a stick. (And that was despite the fact that I neglected to simmer the nuts in milk, strain, and chill. I simply threw all the ingredients, including the nuts, into the blender, and it was crunchy, sweet, and delicious.)

We also tried the Double Chocolate Malt, which was amazing, as good as any I've had (thick, creamy, perfect proportions); the Lemon Meringue Pie, which was incredible (I'm still trying to figure out how it tasted exactly like its namesake); and the Toasted Marshmallow Milkshake, which also comes with a heavenly s'mores variation.

So, my young son declared the week "Burger Blast Week" and it was just that. Fun to make, fun to eat, and you know what else? No one has complained about dinner - not once.

{12429145514320}

Greek Burger

Makes 4 servings

{12429145514321}{12429145514322}

1/2 cup Greek yogurt

1/4 cup grated cucumber

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

3/4 cup pitted kalamata olives

2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano leaves, plus more for garnish

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 1/2 pounds ground chuck (80 percent lean) or ground turkey (90 percent lean)

1 1/2 tablespoons canola oil

1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese, plus sliced feta cheese for garnish (optional)

4 hamburger buns, split; toasted if desired

1/2 ripe beefsteak tomato, chopped

{12429145514323}{12429145514324}

1. Whisk together the yogurt, cucumber, and garlic in a small bowl and season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to eight hours before serving to allow the flavors to meld.

2. Combine the olives, oregano, and olive oil in a food processor and process until smooth. The olive paste can be made up to a day ahead, covered, and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before using.

3. Divide the meat into four equal portions (about 6 ounces each). Form each portion loosely into a 3/4-inch-thick burger and make a deep depression in the center with your thumb. Season both sides of each burger with salt and pepper.

4. Heat the canola oil over high heat until it shimmers, then cook the burgers until brown and slightly charred on the first side (three minutes for beef and five minutes for turkey). Flip the burgers and cook (three minutes for beef and four minutes for turkey.) Top each one with crumbled feta cheese and a basting cover (or a tent of aluminum foil) and cook for one more minute.

5. Place the burgers on the bun bottoms, and spoon some of the yogurt sauce and olive paste over the burgers. Top with the chopped tomatoes, sliced feta, if desired, and oregano. Cover with the bun tops and serve immediately.

- From Bobby Flay's Burgers, Fries & Shakes (Clarkson Potter)

Per serving: 750 calories, 37 grams protein, 27 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams sugar, 54 grams fat, 136 milligrams cholesterol, 818 milligrams sodium, 2 grams dietary fiber.{12429145514325}