Good Taste

Salad as still life

Continuity is the watchword at Friday Saturday Sunday, at 35 now one of the city's longest-running and loyally patronized dining rooms. Upstairs at the Tank Bar, you can still get the signature jumbo lump crab cake, unfiddled with, just the way you remember it. But owner Weaver Lilley isn't above adding a new wrinkle, or in the current case, a new salad celebrating the Art Museum's "Cézanne and Beyond" exhibit, running through May 17. Lilley, a "big Cézanne fan," said he studied the artist's still lifes to come up with a salad resonant of their mood. The result is a simple, fresh salad of thinly sliced Bosc pear, crisp Honey Crisp apple, and red grapes (some of Cézanne's most frequent models), with Roquefort cheese over a tender bed of butter lettuce. One trick: The fruit is tossed with the lettuce in a spicy vinaigrette, then re-posed on the top of the salad.

Cézanne Salad, $10 (or on the house with a ticket to the exhibit), Friday Saturday Sunday, 261 S. 21st St., 215-546-4232, www.frisatsun.com.

- Rick Nichols