Drink: Southern Belle 2013

While the rest of the beverage industry is busy collaborating and cross-pollinating among genres (see the coffee-beer in last week's "Drink"), the usually staid wine world has largely remained aloof from the mash-up fray, pushing instead toward purity of terroir and "non-interventionist" ideals.

It's no wonder Dan Phillips (formerly of Grateful Palate) has been quoted as saying he hopes his bourbon barrel-aged Southern Belle "offends every sommelier and Frenchman in the world."

Of course, he's using barrels from cult producer Pappy Van Winkle (good luck getting the actual bourbon!), which lends the project extra allure.

But what sets this $19 bottle above the usual novelty is the fact that the 2013 edition - a blend of Monastrell and syrah from Murcia in Spain - is really enhanced, not overwhelmed, by the oak.

The deep red fruit is round and accessible on first sip, then a trap door opens up, revealing even darker notes of barrel vanilla that ride just up to the edge of being boozy without quite crossing the line.

Sorry to disappoint, Dan, no offense taken.

- Craig LaBan

Southern Belle 2013, $18.99 (code 47045). Most Philadelphia-area inventory is in suburban State Stores.