Debating a label of 'authentic' Italian cuisine

Here is an excerpt from Craig LaBan's online chat of April 14, 2015.

Craig LaBan: I reviewed Gran Caffè l'Aquila on Sunday, and while I found many things about this hyper-ambitious bi-level Italian project intriguing, my three meals there were disappointing. I understand many folks disagree, but for me, this one just didn't work out when it came to the most important aspects: food and service. One of Caffè l'Aquila's best qualities, though, was its wine bar - one of several great new Italian wine lists to land this year. This big Umbrian Sagrantino (both in blend and 100% form) was just one example of the excellent, lesser-known wines the Caffè is serving at refreshingly fair markups.

Reader: How could you snub Gran Caffè? Even your language in your article said two bells. It seems that you don't recognize authentic Italian cuisine because it doesn't exist in Philadelphia. With that mind frame, you should take a trip to Abruzzo, and then Gran Caffè, and I think you would reconsider your snub of one bell. It's the closest thing I have found to home since I've moved to the States 10 years ago!

C.L.: Thanks for your note. However, reviews are multifaceted. And while I gave plenty of credit to the things that Gran Caffè did well - the espresso, the gelati, the wine bar, even the decor - which you can definitely read as positives, I did not think the cooked food, or the service, was very good at all. You are not going to get to two bells and above from me if more than half of the food is poorly cooked.

Reader: Where is your favorite place to go for authentic Italian food in the Philly area and why?

C.L.: We have so many great Italians in Philly, from the various Vetri restaurants to the Le Virtu/Brigantessa group, to the many BYOs ... Melograno/Fraschetta, Radicchio, Zeppoli, Monsu, Il Pittore, l'Angolo, etc. You can argue all you want about what's authentic or not (and I've been to Italy 5 times, so I have a clue). But just because something is "authentic" to the letter doesn't mean it's well-prepared. Also, speaking of authentic, where does pasta topped with gelato fit into that? Or salumi sushi?

Reader: I ate at the Mainland Inn and was really impressed. My friends and I did the tasting menu at the chef's table. Have you reviewed it yet?

C.L.: The Mainland Inn is on my radar. This is the recently revamped country inn not far from Lansdale that's using grassfed meats and organic produce from Quarry Hill farm nearby. Very accomplished chef in the kitchen here, and a beautiful setting. More from me on this later.

  C.L.: I was sorry to hear Matt Ridgway decided to close the Pass on April 25. He's a talented chef with a passion for French cuisine, and the country store setting was lovely. The tasting menus needed refining to get up to the level I know Matt's capable of - was looking forward to that revisit. But Rosemont is pretty remote for a regular Philly crowd; it must be hard to make a sustainable BYO there. I haven't talked to Matt, so I don't know what happened - but I heard he had another opportunity.

Reader: I'm more upset to lose PorcSalt and that guanciale.

C.L.: Charcuterie was Matt's passion. But we have some great new players on the scene - 1732 Meats and La Divisa from Nick Macri in the Reading Terminal - that definitely soften the bacon blow.