Chef's daughter Czechs out all that Prague has to offer

Prague is a city of legend and myths that speak of mystery, of enchantment, of romance. It's a city whose long history is constantly visible in modern-day life, a place where western and Eastern Europe meet.

The city, with its historic castles, churches and synagogues, as well as its remnants of a communist nation, recently topped a list of places Europeans, Americans and Asians would like to visit.

I arrived there early last January with no idea what to expect. I had decided a few months before that I would teach English abroad in order to travel, and when it came to picking where, I decided to challenge myself. Prague was a city I had never been to in a country I knew little about that spoke a language I had never heard.

Sometimes, my self-challenges are slightly masochistic.

But I persevered, and the next 10 1/2 months were full of learning as I embraced a new culture. I was constantly discovering different aspects of Czech life, whether it was their obsession with "the nature" - aka the countryside - or April 30's Night of the Burning Witches. (Most countries gloss over their witch-burning past, but the Czechs celebrate it.)

I learned very little Czech but got used to hearing its sing-song cadence all around me.

Being a chef's daughter, one of my favorite aspects of any country's society and customs is the food.

The Czechs adore their meat and potatoes. A traveler can go to any part of Prague and find a cheap but good meal of dumplings, bread and a flavorful beef or pork stew. This is especially gratifying in the chill of winter.

During my first Czech meal, I stared in awe as my dining partner ordered something I couldn't pronounce that was essentially meat wrapped in cheese, wrapped in more meat, and fried.

My friend attacked it with gusto.

Czech drinks are even better. The country's vineyards produce delicious yet inexpensive wines, but the Czech Republic's heart is in its beer. Nearby Plzen is home of the famous Pilsner Urquell. Prague was, in fact, the first place that I enjoyed drinking beer.

For those looking for something with more of a kick, I'd recommend Becherovka, a bitters alcohol made with a long list of herbs and spices that includes anise and cinnamon. Introducing it to a new arrival, the more seasoned expatriate would always say it tastes like Christmas.

All in all, I was quite happy with cheap Czech cuisine until about April, when warmer weather made the heavy dishes seem less appealing. I needed to escape from dumplings, goulash, sausages, cabbage and endless forms of potatoes.

This proved less of a problem than I expected, even though Prague isn't known for its cuisine. The city has been experimenting with different fare since it began realizing its potential as an international destination a couple of decades ago. Today, there are sushi bars, Italian, French and Indian restaurants and Brazilian steak houses. There are even - incredibly odd in my opinion - a couple of T.G.I. Fridays.

My break with Czech food continued until my family visited. Under the unwritten law that "When parents visit child, they must take said child out to a restaurant that she, herself, cannot afford," we went to The Tower.

To clarify, I should say they took me to a tower, since there is no shortage of them in Prague. There, among the rafters at the top of a medieval building, we had gourmet Czech food.

This was something completely different from what I previously experienced. These weren't just dumplings - they were light, fluffy concoctions cooked with cranberries. Instead of a lack of vegetables, there was salad, broccoli and a wealth of olives. And the meat . . .

My mom had wild salmon. My brother dined on pheasant. My dad appreciated his wild boar. I enjoyed my venison. Between the setting and the food, I felt I was attending a medieval feast at a king's palace.

As amazing as that meal and ambience was, my favorite dinner with my family was at Triton Restaurant, which opened in 1912. The cuisine is international and, may I say, delicious, but it was the ambience that took my breath away.

Designed with art nouveau ideals, the restaurant resembled a cave full of stalactites. On the walls were scenes of the Greek myth of Eurydice and Orpheus. The combination made for an almost mystical experience.

Prague is a city of surprises, where the mundane seamlessly mixes with the extraordinary. If you have even an ounce of an adventurous spirit, it will give you memories to last a lifetime. *

Katharyn Coleman is the daughter of Daily News food columnist Jim Coleman.