Drink

Everyone needs a go-to red in times of tight wine budgets. And for this task, historically, I've veered towards the reliable country juice of Spain and southwestern France, with Borsao ($7.99), Cuvee de Peña ($7.99), Torres Sangre de Toro ($9.99), and various Côtes du Rhone (La Vieille Ferme, $9.99; Parallèle 45, $10.99) to keep the party going.

But I've found a promising new bottle that's a recent arrival to the state stores: the 2004 Olvena Coupage. Olvena is a nine-year-old bodega in the Somontano, in the Spanish foothills of the Pyrenees, an area traditionally known for its cabernet and merlot. This well-balanced blend anchored by 50 percent tempranillo, however, shows that the up-and-coming region has other possibilities, and there's no mistaking the modern approach to this nice little red. It puts a polished core of ripe black raspberry up front, but frames it with just enough earthiness to remind you it comes from Spain. It's full-bodied without being a bruiser, so try it with a good autumn roast or a meaty stew.

The 2004 Olvena Coupage red blend costs $9.99 at selected Pennsylvania state wine stores.

- Craig LaBan