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Syrah is gaining ground in California's vineyards, where the "Rhone Rangers" have begun to craft bold reds that fall somewhere between the jammy fruit of Aussie shiraz and the earthier essence of southern France.

Syrah is gaining ground in California's vineyards, where the "Rhone Rangers" have begun to craft bold reds that fall somewhere between the jammy fruit of Aussie shiraz and the earthier essence of southern France.

This estate-grown 2003 from Truchard in Napa Valley's Carneros region is a perfect example of that style. It has a deep core of ripe, almost pretty black fruit. But that quickly unwinds on the palate with tobacco smoke, pepper spice and a plummy tartness that lets it linger for a while.

It's perfect for duck and lamb. Marked down $10 in Pennsylvania for one of the better Chairman's Selection values I've tasted in a while, this one shouldn't linger long on store shelves.

Truchard Carneros 2003 Syrah costs $17.99 at selected Pennsylvania wine stores.