Good Taste

Devotees of college-campus cheap eats know the Koja truck on 38th Street as one of the better flavor values near Penn. Koja founder Jae Sim, who sold the truck more than a year ago, has gone uptown with his quick-serve Korean and Japanese fare, and settled into a sit-down storefront in the new strip mall across the street from Temple.

The menu covers a satisfying range of tasty pan-Asian classics, from bibimbop to build-your-own udon bowls. But the bulgoki wrap sandwich, created for the new store, is an inspired example of Korean-American fusion that should catch on with the student crowd. The hefty wrap comes filled with griddle-fried beef and onions, marinated in a gingery soy and sesame dressing, that tastes something like a Korean steak sandwich. With a final touch of rice, peppers and crunchy romaine inside (which keeps the wrap from going soggy), plus a side of dumplings, all for $6.99, it might be a good enough deal to inspire a switch in campus allegiances. At least at lunchtime.

The beef bulgoki wrap at Koja Grille at 1600 N. Broad St. is an inspired example of Korean-American fusion.

- Craig LaBan

The bulgoki wrap sandwich costs $6.99 at Koja Grille, 1600 N. Broad St., 215-763-5652;