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I love the bold fruit and rowdy spice of a good red zin, especially when I put the tailgate grill and chili pot into fall overdrive. And the wines from Seghesio are among the most consistent zinfandels I know. Unlike other, lesser zins, which overindulge the grape's typically ripe fruit and high-alcohol heat, Seghesio delivers fullness with balance.

I love the bold fruit and rowdy spice of a good red zin, especially when I put the tailgate grill and chili pot into fall overdrive. And the wines from Seghesio are among the most consistent zinfandels I know. Unlike other, lesser zins, which overindulge the grape's typically ripe fruit and high-alcohol heat, Seghesio delivers fullness with balance.

The Cortina is one of my favorite high-end zinfandels ($26.99 in Pennsylvania), but the standard Sonoma bottling is also excellent for about $20 or less. The 2005 vintage tastes like an intense burst of black raspberries layered over cedar and bittersweet dark mocha. A bold yet satiny tannin backbone carries the long, fresh finish of lime and dusky paprika spice.

The 2005 Seghesio Sonoma Zinfandel is available for $19.99 at selected Pennsylvania state wine stores.

- Craig LaBan