Classically bland creamed chipped beef is neither photogenic nor healthy. And it turns out that even with a veg-forward makeover at Tierce, the laid-back Fishtown bruncherie from the talented chefs behind Helm, the hearty breakfast classic is still no beauty queen. But there’s so much more flavor in this revamp of the diner standard to love. First is the white gravy, which is plenty creamy, but thickened with pureed cauliflower instead of flour. Whole florets also add a farm-fresh bite to the milky white sauce, while salty laces of prosciutto di Parma add Italian sparks to perk it up. On the side, crispy hash browns are topped with a zingy mop of piperade; a fistful of blistered peppers, charred onions, shallots and garlic that gets cooked down to a piquant gloss with tomato juice; and a spice that lingers as you head back to the other side of the dish for more creamy indulgence. Ultimately, this hefty morning entree may be nearly as decadent as its classic inspiration, even with its cauliflower transformation. But it’s definitely not bland.
— Craig LaBan
Cauliflower-creamed chipped prosciutto, $10, Tierce, 2218 Frankford Ave., 215-634-4367.