Camden taqueria is strong on seafood

South Philly gets all the attention when it comes to our growing roster of authentic taquerias.

But the Federal Street corridor of Camden has long had a strong Mexican presence, too. One of the mainstays worth a visit is San Lucas, a bright and cheery corner space now in its 15th year that had a colorful, fiestalike mood even though the dining room at lunch was filled with just me and a table of hungry cops.

More important, this Puebla-rooted kitchen delivers food with a handmade touch, from the fresh-pressed tortillas to the thick, dark mole edgy with spice to balance the sweet notes of chocolate, cinnamon, and nuts.

San Lucas' strong suit, though, seems to be its wide variety of combo platillos, and especially those that showcase seafood. The "El Mariachi" featured six big butterflied shrimps on a skewer, still moist from the grill and with just the lightest savor of garlic. A cheese-stuffed chile relleno in mild tomato sauce gave the dish a little heft; it is served along with a mound of moist rice and a thin pad of flavorful grilled beef.

But the big surprise for me was the continued seafood theme on that crisply fried tostada round - more sweet shrimp tossed like a chilled seafood salad with crema, pico de gallo, and avocado. At just under $19, it was a stellar example of fresh Mexican flavors just minutes from the Ben Franklin Bridge.

- Craig LaBan
"El Mariachi" ($18.50), San Lucas Mexican Restaurant, 2600 Federal St., Camden, 856-966-3556; on Facebook.