Drink: The Paloma

The Paloma too often gets overshadowed by big sister Margarita - at least, north of the Rio Grande. But in Mexico, it seems, Paloma reigns as the tequila drink queen, in large part because this quenching grapefruit cocktail better harmonizes with the tequila. Recipes for this highball drink vary from basic - one-part tequila, half-a-lime squeezed, three parts grapefruit soda (Jarritos or Squirt) - to more natural variations with fresh-squeezed grapefruit and lime juices, plus club soda and agave syrup. Salt, on the rim or in the drink, are optional. I loved this high-toned rendition from Princeton's Agricola, even if it strays from convention without fizz or salt. A surprising dash of St. Germain elderflower liqueur lent the drink its delicate sweet balance, but also a subtle floral note that hovered on the finish. Elegant, yet still amazingly refreshing, Paloma trumps Margarita now on my cooling summer drink list, too.

- Craig LaBan
Paloma, $12, Agricola, 11 Witherspoon St., Princeton, 609-921-2798.