Trenton pizza crosses the Delaware

Sausage pizza by De Lorenzo’s Tomato Pies, Lower Makefield.

Trentonians call it “tomato pie,” but it’s not the sauce-no-cheese tomato pie that we love in Norristown, Conshohocken, and Philadelphia’s Pennsylvania ‘burbs.

So it’s … pizza, right?

Yes. It’s outstanding brick-oven, chunky-tomato-topped, thin-crust pizza. De Lorenzo’s Tomato Pies (the one formerly on Trenton’s Hudson Street and now in Robbinsville, N.J.) opened a second location last month at 1679 Edgewood Rd., Yardley.

Sam Amico and crew set it up with high-ceilinged roominess. Don’t let that fool you: Lunch and dinner lines are long, and if you plan takeout for dinner, call in your order early in the day. I showed up at 3:40 p.m. on a Thursday, found myself 12th in line for the 4 p.m. dinner opening, and had a one-hour wait for takeout. Seating was available, so perhaps I should have ordered at a table, waited for my pie, and announced a quick exit.

At any rate, I got to drool as I watched the pizzaiolo use a knife, not a cutter, to slice the hot pies into triangles after drizzling on olive oil.

De Lorenzo has been the name in tomato pies seemingly forever. Another branch, tracing its roots to 1938, owns DeLorenzo’s Pizza on Sloan Avenue in Hamilton (that’s Rick DeLorenzo), and last year, DeLorenzo’s Burg Pizza opened in Levittown (owned by Tyler DeLorenzo).

— Michael Klein

De Lorenzo’s Tomato Pies, 679 Edgewood Rd., Yardley. $16 for a large pie, plus $1.75 per topping.