In Philadelphia, a tale of two burgers

Burgers run the price-range spectrum. Take the cheeseburger ($5) at Fountain Porter, the bar at 10th and Tasker in South Philly, and the Black Angus burger ($24) on the lunch menu at Lacroix at the Rittenhouse (which isn't even the city's most expensive — that distinction goes to the foie gras-topped $26 Whiskey King at Village Whiskey).

Lacroix's, perched plumply on a brioche bun from Metropolitan Bakery and served with truffled fries, has 8 ounces of Black Angus beef topped with Cabot cheddar, shredded lettuce, red onion, and cherry peppers for zing. Fountain Porter's is a 5-ounce patty of 80/20, sizzled to a thin crust and topped simply with American cheese and a slice of tomato, and comes on a potato roll with two pickle chips on the side. Fries are $3 more — no truffles.

— Michael Klein

Cheeseburger, $5, Fountain Porter, 1601 S. 10th St.; fountainporter.com

Black Angus Smoked Bacon Burger, $24, Lacroix at the Rittenhouse, 210 W. Rittenhouse Square, 215-790-2533; lacroixrestaurant.com