East Passyunk Avenue is building quite the collection of white-tablecloth joints, including Paradiso, Noord, Fond, Will, Laurel, and Da Vinci (plus Le Virtu, which may lack tablecloths but certainly not style).
Its newest is Townsend (1632 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-639-3203), an elegant French bistro on two floors of a onetime rowhouse last known as Sophia’s after a few years as Salt & Pepper.
Its namesake is chef Townsend “Tod” Wentz, the Lacroix and Four Seasons alum who won two bells for his work at McCrossen’s Tavern.
Wentz uses classic techniques for what is now a small menu (rabbit pot-a-feu, seared Icelandic cod, wild striped bass, all priced in the mid-$20s). Wine list of mostly Europeans includes two wines on tap at the first-floor bar.