The early line on Noble American Cookery

You're a party of four. Two of you like to dine outside. Two of you like to dine inside.

Both sides will be satisfied at the new Noble American Cookery, opening at dinnertime Monday (5/4) at 2025 Sansom St. It will be open nightly; lunch and brunch are planned.

Owners Bruno Pouget, Todd Rodgers and chef Steven Cameron installed floor-to-ceiling, flip-type windows in front that create two "tables" of four. Noble, a year-in-the-works renovation of the former Gioia Mia, is a bilevel - 30 seats downstairs (plus bar) and 70 upstairs.

Though the floor on the first floor is polished concrete, there's reclaimed wood everywhere in the neutral rustic/contemporary decor. The 20-foot bar (and some tables upstairs) are made of bubinga (African rosewood). The stairs are oak timbers from a barn. Three new skylights on the second floor are cleverly lit from outside, so that the bricks on the adjoining buildings cast a nighttime glow. They brought the communal table from their Jersey Shore seasonal restaurant, Blue in Long Beach Island, to accommodate 10 people in the second-floor street-side window. (Speaking of Blue... It won't return this summer.) Cameron also will have a rooftop herb garden.