Peek at Bibou

Late this month, Pierre and Charlotte Calmels will open their French BYO, Bibou, at 1009 S. Eighth St. (it's the former Pif, two blocks above Washington). The Calmelses and their crew scooped out the snug interior and are going to work on a homey look.

Until last year, Pierre Calmels was executive chef at Le Bec-Fin. Their parting was completely amicable, as Georges Perrier himself says. The French-born and -trained Calmels' first U.S. job was in the 1990s at Daniel in NYC. After leaving Daniel, he relocated to Switzerland, where he met Charlotte working at the same hotel. In August 2001, he got a job in the US and asked Charlotte to follow him. She's worked at Brasserie Perrier, the Restaurant School as an instructor, gourmet grocer Assouline & Ting, Patou, and Bistro St-Tropez.

As you can see from Calmels' working menu, he's going the ambitious route. In addition to such dishes as a terrine of crispy head cheese and braised pig feet stuffed with foie gras, he'll do blood sausage and braised rabbit leg.

Entrees will range between $24 and $34, and on Sunday evening, they will offer a prix-fixe menu with choice of a few apps, entrees and dessert for $35 to $40.