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Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Peek at Bibou

Late this month, Pierre and Charlotte Calmels will open their French BYO, Bibou, at 1009 S. Eighth St. (it's the former Pif, two blocks above Washington). The Calmelses and their crew scooped out the snug interior and are going to work on a homey look.

Until last year, Pierre Calmels was executive chef at Le Bec-Fin. Their parting was completely amicable, as Georges Perrier himself says. The French-born and -trained Calmels' first U.S. job was in the 1990s at Daniel in NYC. After leaving Daniel, he relocated to Switzerland, where he met Charlotte working at the same hotel. In August 2001, he got a job in the US and asked Charlotte to follow him. She's worked at Brasserie Perrier, the Restaurant School as an instructor, gourmet grocer Assouline & Ting, Patou, and Bistro St-Tropez.

As you can see from Calmels' working menu, he's going the ambitious route. In addition to such dishes as a terrine of crispy head cheese and braised pig feet stuffed with foie gras, he'll do blood sausage and braised rabbit leg.

Entrees will range between $24 and $34, and on Sunday evening, they will offer a prix-fixe menu with choice of a few apps, entrees and dessert for $35 to $40.


Posted by Michael Klein @ 9:46 AM  Permalink | File Under: TableTalk | 9 comments
Comments   
Comment removed.
Posted 06:53 PM, 04/07/2009
Sam Adams
I'm calling it; the best new restaurant 2009. with 3 maybe 4 bells.
Posted 04:45 PM, 05/05/2009
Chef Jason
Chef Pierre will do a fine job. I can't wait to eat his food.
Posted 04:37 PM, 05/13/2009
ccalmels
Bibou phone number: 215.965.8290 Thank you!
Posted 02:24 PM, 05/14/2009
The Smiths
My wife and I were at Bibou last night and it definitely gets a vote from both of us. As long-time Pif fans looking for another french bistro BYOB, we were very eager to try Bibou out. Starting with the fresh bread made daily in-house, moving on the the best foie gras (uniquely enhanced by fresh mango and pumpkin toast) that we have ever had, continuing with a deliciously tender and flavorful hanger steak and ending with both a very french and tasty cheese plate and dessert sampler, this is one very nice restaurant in the style of a french bistro BYBO. Charlotte and Pierre are gracious hosts and have attractively restyled the restaurant. Although they have only been open for a week, the staff was flawless in an easygoing and friendly manner. Highly recommended!
Posted 04:14 PM, 05/26/2009
The Smiths
Our first experience at Bibou was soooooo good that we jumped at the chance to celebrate National Snail Day there on Sunday. Pierre developed a 5 course menu where every course except dessert contained Escargot. I used to say there are cooks and there are chefs but Pierre Calmals fits into an altogether higher category than chefs - he works magic with the ingredients. Now, many people might cringe at the thought of enjoying an evening where virtually every dish contains snails but they just don't know what they are missing. It was a prix fixe dinner at $55 per person ($10 more than their standard Sunday prix fixe dinner) but worth every penny and then some. The Soupe et caviar d'escargot was a delicate tea infused celeriac cream with snail caviar. Neither of us had ever had snail caviar so it was an experience. This caviar is small and white with a quite delicate taste. Very nice. This was accompanied by 3 duck and snail brochette with parmesan which were tender and tasty. The sauteed trout fillet with snail almond meuniere and fennel fondue was the best trout either of us have ever had. Previously, I went to Pond for trout but Bibou is my new favorite for this delicate dish. The gratin of pigs feet with snails, fava beans and chanterelles was delicious. The wild rice, sweetbreads and snail blanquette was also to die for. The sweetbreads and snails providing the flavor and the wild rice providing substance and a really nice crunchy texture. We have found nothing to grouse about at Bibou at all. We are going back again next week.
Posted 09:58 AM, 06/18/2009
chrislove258
I live across the street and went on opening night... its a little out of my price-range to be a regular dinner destination, but the food was phenomenal - especially the Skate, snails and Mango pie... as others have mentioned, the owners are incredibly friendly. Dressed in jeans and a rugby, I received the same friendly service that well-dressed 'older' couples got... I also couldnt help but notice that half the crowd was speaking French - and they seemed happy with their food too... I hope they're able to stick around.
Posted 04:47 PM, 06/23/2009
The Smiths
The Smiths went back to Bibou on Sunday to try the tasting menu. It consisted of: - Chilled summer squash consomme, duck tenderloin brunoise - Braised oxtail terrine, organic red beet salad - Seared scallop, saffron cauliflower puree and florets, rhubarb lemon vinaigrette - Roasted bone marrow - Seared foie gras, griotte cherries and posched pears - Hanger steak, sauce au poivre, sauteed potatoes and green asparagus - Cheese plate: Valencay, Edel de Cleron, Roquefort, served with tomatillo jam and poached pears - Blueberry pie All was very good, well prepared and highly enjoyed. The scallop, bone marrow, foie gras and the cheese plate particulary stood out. This was the best bone marrow I have ever enjoyed! I would like to clear up what may be a misperception by some readers. I have favorably compared the preparation, inventiveness of the chef, quality of ingredients, etc (ie., what you eat) to what has been served to me in certain world class restaurants such as Per Se. I never meant to say that the overall experience is the same as in these vaunted restaurants. How can a tiny bistro in south philly compare with the pomp and circumstance of a Per Se or Inn at Little Washington? However, while atmosphere and fawning service means something in the end, it is meaningless unless the food is world class and that is the class of the food at Bibou which, by the way, is served in a friendly and efficient manner in a small but pleasant room at a fraction of the price. One of the things that bores me quickly with a restaurant is when the menu does not change. While a number of the core items such as scallops and hanger steak may be always on the menu at Bibou, the prep changes constantly and this is where Pierre shines as small changes completely change the nature of the dish to keep you interested. This week is Birchrunville Cafe and The Whip Tavern, then back to Bibou next week. ENJOY!!!
Posted 04:47 PM, 06/23/2009
The Smiths
The Smiths went back to Bibou on Sunday to try the tasting menu. It consisted of: - Chilled summer squash consomme, duck tenderloin brunoise - Braised oxtail terrine, organic red beet salad - Seared scallop, saffron cauliflower puree and florets, rhubarb lemon vinaigrette - Roasted bone marrow - Seared foie gras, griotte cherries and posched pears - Hanger steak, sauce au poivre, sauteed potatoes and green asparagus - Cheese plate: Valencay, Edel de Cleron, Roquefort, served with tomatillo jam and poached pears - Blueberry pie All was very good, well prepared and highly enjoyed. The scallop, bone marrow, foie gras and the cheese plate particulary stood out. This was the best bone marrow I have ever enjoyed! I would like to clear up what may be a misperception by some readers. I have favorably compared the preparation, inventiveness of the chef, quality of ingredients, etc (ie., what you eat) to what has been served to me in certain world class restaurants such as Per Se. I never meant to say that the overall experience is the same as in these vaunted restaurants. How can a tiny bistro in south philly compare with the pomp and circumstance of a Per Se or Inn at Little Washington? However, while atmosphere and fawning service means something in the end, it is meaningless unless the food is world class and that is the class of the food at Bibou which, by the way, is served in a friendly and efficient manner in a small but pleasant room at a fraction of the price. One of the things that bores me quickly with a restaurant is when the menu does not change. While a number of the core items such as scallops and hanger steak may be always on the menu at Bibou, the prep changes constantly and this is where Pierre shines as small changes completely change the nature of the dish to keep you interested. This week is Birchrunville Cafe and The Whip Tavern, then back to Bibou next week. ENJOY!!!
9 comments
About Michael Klein
Michael Klein chronicles local people, places and things (in easy-to-digest portions) three days a week in his Inquirer column "INQlings." He also covers the restaurant scene in his Thursday Food column, "Table Talk." See his work at http://www.philly.com/inquirer/columnists/michael_klein.
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