Le Bec-Fin chef lands on his feet
Nick Elmi, out of a job Saturday, will head a new restaurant on Rittenhouse Square.
Le Bec-Fin chef lands on his feet
As one kitchen door closes, and another has opened wide for Nicholas Elmi, who was chef/partner at Le Bec-Fin, which ended its 42-year run under Georges Perrier Saturday (3/3). After renovations under new owner Nicolas Fanucci, it's due to reopen this spring.
Elmi, 31, has found employment as chef at Rittenhouse Tavern, expected to open in April inside the Art Alliance on Rittenhouse Square (18th and Rittenhouse). The space previously was Gardenia after spells as Opus 251 and Le Jardin. (Eater.com had the news Sunday; Elmi had wanted to release it Monday [3/5] out of respect for Le Bec-Fin's Georges Perrier.)
Rittenhouse Tavern's general manager will be Dan Elliott, a veteran of Rouge and Oyster House who just helped to open Hickory Lane in Fairmount.
The deal for Elmi seems like fate.
Restaurant Associates, which is setting up and overseeing the restaurant, had been searching for a chef for months. "I had kind of gotten a bit disillusioned [with the applicants]," said Ed Brown, the chef managing Rittenhouse Tavern on behalf of Restaurant Associates. When Perrier cinched the sale of Le Bec-Fin, and it was clear that Fanucci wanted his own chef, Elmi's buddies encouraged him to look up Brown.
What followed was a tasting at the kitchens of the Kimmel Center, which Restaurant Associates also manages. "His turbot dish with a red wine sauce blew my socks off - perfectly cooked and clean and simple," said Brown, a French-trained seafood specialist who signs his emails "best fishes." Elmi also prepared roasted squab and charred squid. These dishes won't be on Rittenhouse Tavern's menu, both men said. Rather, Elmi prepared them to demonstrate different cooking techniques.
Rittenhouse Tavern's style will be American brasserie - reasonably priced enough for regulars, yet appropriate for special occasions.
"That's more in my wheelhouse," said Elmi. "The idea is to be simple and elegant and fun. ...We're not going to fall into 'farm to table.' We'll be highlighting the best product we can."
Elmi said it was his turn to have his socks blown off when he toured Rittenhouse Tavern's tricked-out kitchen. "You picture yourself doing what you need to do there," he said.
Elmi, a Boston native, started working in kitchens as a 14-year-old. Elmi went to the Culinary Institute of America and interned for Perrier at his late Brasserie Perrier. He returned after graduation in 2001. Next came jobs at Lutece, Oceana, and Union Pacific, followed by a return to Perrier's fold to work at Mia in Atlantic City. From there, he went to Restaurant Guy Savoy in Paris. Next, in 2008, he returned to Philly to take the exec chef's job at Le Bec. He and his wife live in Collingswood with their daughter, who's almost 2, and newborn son.
MORE: The last night of the Georges Perrier era at Le Bec-Fin.
blah— bbewsirhc- Who cares!— greenie
- "Blah" and "Who cares" sounds like sour grapes to me. What happened to civility and treating others the way you would like to be treated. I am wondering what profession you both are in. You don't sound very professional to me. Chefs work very hard and long hours under extreme pressure. It takes dedication to rise to the top. It is not always about luck.— breadgirl
- What kind of name is Rittenhouse Tavern for such an elegant building with such grand architectural style and having to do with art? Sounds very incongruous and tasteless to me. Hope the food is better than the name.— cognoscenti
Comment removed.- Couldnt the guy on the right find a pressed chefs jacket for a photo?— 420-24-7
- Nice yellowish cef jacket covered in stains for exec chef and the guy on right looks like he slept in his. These guys look like they should be serving up burgers at a greasy spoon. And what the deal with the exec chef working at like 9 different restaurants? Doesnt sound like he can either hold a job or he likes to hang around very long. Not the kinda guy id like hirer.— MrSmithTP
- Wow, all the comments above except mine sound like a bunch of whiners.
Chefs can hold positions at numerous restaurants during their career.I am beginning to believe that most of these commentators are
disgrunted and unhappy in their own lives - maybe fired from working in a restaurant.— breadgirl - Anyone who really knows Chef Elmi's work will make this new Rittenhouse Tavern a destination. Philadelphia is lucky to keep him. Where will all the haters go, now that they can't insult and whine about Georges Perrier?— markmusician
- Comment removed.
- Who is the writer (and I use that term loosely) of this article? Read the first sentence - why is the word "and" in there? No one writing for online newspapers or television station websites knows how to write or proof. Pity.— mel-b
- cognoscenti? I thought that ilk had vanished! So heartened to see that at least one remains, especially in Philadelphia! I think I'll go out and celebrate this harbinger's appearance! Like the first robin proclaiming springs arrival!— zeitgeist
- Comment removed.
- @topher68-many people agree, based on how he treated them. It just seems that people explode on any mention of him He really was key in elevating dining in Philadelphia over the past 40 years. Gilmore, Roman, Calmels, and more came of age through LBF, and Nick Elmi is a terrific chef who will continue to produce great work. I just hate to see people jump all over the people who worked for/with Perrier because of their association.— markmusician
