Vintage, 129 S. 13th St., 4-6 p.m. Monday to Friday

While the rest of the 13th Street restaurant row in Washington Square West throbs with energy (Sampan, Double Knot, El Vez, Lolita), Jason Evenchik's storefront wine-bar charmer is dialed down. The low-lit Vintage is an homage to Paris, where he and wife Delphine lived before relocating to Philly in 2002. Mackenzie Hilton's brasserie-style menu pairs well with the 60 wines available by the glass.

At happy hour, $6 bubbly or sangria, $5 select wines, and $4 beers are offered with fries ($3), a half-portion of mussels ($7), a charcuterie plate ($7), and the fig and Gorgonzola bruschetta, a mélange of sweet and tart, smooth and crunchy.

For those who hanker for French onion soup or baked Brie late at night, the kitchen is open until midnight weekdays and until 1 a.m. on weekends.