Oy! An upgrade to corned beef | Let’s Eat

This week, we head to a Center City deli, a South Jersey pizzeria, and a kitchen incubator in South Philadelphia, and we take a look at more new restaurants on the way.

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– Michael Klein

When listing great delis around town, critic Craig LaBan routinely would skip Schlesinger’s near Rittenhouse Square, much to the chagrin of the owner, City Councilman Allan Domb. But recently Domb brought in a new manager and a director of operations, and — to use a Yiddishism — Craig is kvelling from the improvements, which extend to the matzo ball soup.

Need more deli options? Here are Craig’s recommendations.

Just about a month ago, I ran down nearly 30 restaurant projects on the books for 2021, including two on the Main Line from chef Nick Elmi (Laurel, ITV, Royal Boucherie) and Fia Berisha, as well as an urban winery in Kensington, a Di Bruno’s location in Wayne, and a Mexican restaurant from Stephen Starr. Then I found some more. Read up now on even more newcomers, including two barbecue spots, a vegan cafe and Japanese restaurant in South Jersey, an Israeli restaurant in Queen Village, and a Center City bistro calling itself “America’s first herbal cocktail lounge.”

Ange Branca has found plenty of life after closing Sate Kampar, her South Philadelphia Malaysian restaurant, during the pandemic. Craig visited her new Kampar Kitchen, a collaborative space producing different meal kits to go five nights a week out of South Philly’s Bok Building, to see how Branca is giving chefs, and several others, the opportunity to take the next steps.

Born in India and brought up first in west Africa and then New Jersey, Arnab Maitra is the hot hand at Pizza Crime, a new shop in Haddonfield. He learned pizzamaking from Marc Vetri, who recalls: “He was always pushing the limits, asking questions, trying to keep learning.”

Stephen Starr has discovered the world of delivery-only, or “ghost” kitchens. He’s been running two out of Serpico on South Street. His next one is called Wing Wing Wing, and it premieres this weekend. And he has another one in the works called The Burger That Ate Philadelphia.

Opening alerts: Shake Shack opens at 11 a.m. Thursday, Feb. 4 in Plymouth Meeting Mall. It’s in the outer parking lot near the main mall entrance off Germantown Pike. A location in Suburban Square in Ardmore is on the way, though its date is TBD. ... The new Philly Live! Casino at Ninth and Packer in South Philadelphia unveils Lorenzo & Sons Pizza and Termini Bros. Bakery on Wednesday, Feb. 3, followed on Monday, Feb. 8 by Guy Fieri Taco and Guy Fieri Burger eateries, Morty’s Deli, and Sang Kee Noodle Bar.

Know a hungry restaurant worker or jazz musician? Totally classy move from Bynum Hospitality Group (South, Warmdaddy’s, Relish) and the Share Food Program, the Feed Philly Coalition, Pennsylvania Restaurant & Lodging Association, and Jazz Philadelphia. They’re giving away boxes of shelf-stable, non-perishable groceries, no strings attached. Registration is required for the giveaway, 1-4 p.m. Feb. 13 at South, Broad and Mount Vernon Streets.

Get paid to dine out and boost exposure for Southeastern Pennsylvania restaurants? There’s the Hope for Hospitality program, sponsored by the Pennsylvania Restaurant & Lodging Association, the Neff marketing firm, and Today Media/Main Line. Through March 31, when purchasing a dine-in, takeout, or delivery meal, patrons can win a $25 American Express gift card by sharing their experience on Facebook, Instagram and/or Twitter. To qualify for a weekly drawing, posts must tag the restaurant and include the #hopeforhospitalitypa hashtag. And if you’re looking to help restaurant workers, the PRLA is encouraging donations to the Hospitality Assistance Response of Pennsylvania (HARP), which provides immediate emergency funding to hospitality workers and distributes grants to front-line industry employees experiencing significant hardships.