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Great wine values: M. Chapoutier ‘Belleruche’

Very few have tasted the rare white wines of the Rhône.

France’s Rhône Valley is a region just north of Provence that is best known for its red wines, which range from modestly priced Côtes-du-Rhône to more luxurious Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is an important center of rosé wine production as well, but very few have tasted the rare white wines of the Rhône. Rhône wines of all colors tend to be blends dominated by grapes of the grenache family, and this classic Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc, made by one of the area’s most respected vintners, is no exception. Its dominant grape is grenache blanc, a green-skinned variant of the more famous purple grenache grape. Grenache blanc makes sturdy, richly textured wines but can be quite neutral in flavor and sometimes lacks enough acidity to refresh the palate and resist oxidation. As a result, small proportions of other regional white grapes are added to the mix, each contributing something useful to the recipe: viognier and roussanne bring exotic flavors of flowers and herbs, clairette boosts alcoholic strength, and bourbolenc provides necessary acidity. The resulting wine is on the heavier end of the white-wine spectrum in terms of heft and mouthfeel, but mild in its aromatic expression, with flavors of yellow plums and apricots, fennel and marjoram.

M. Chapoutier “Belleruche,” Côtes-du-Rhône Blanc Rhône Valley, France. $11.99 (regularly $13.99; sale price through Jan. 27). PLCB Item #6556.

Also available at Canal’s in Mt. Ephraim ($13.99) and Benash Liquors & Wines in Cherry Hill ($13.99).