Preparing 'the people's fish'

Historically speaking, shad is "the people's fish," according to Paul Kimport, president of the Fishtown Area Business Association and owner of Johnny Brenda's and Standard Tap. He describes the taste and flakiness as somewhere between trout and salmon.

Shad roe, considered a delicacy, has a mild taste, though the consistency may take some getting used to.

Here's how Kimport prepares them both.

FILLET SHAD

1 shad fillet (about 12 ounces)

Salt and pepper

Blended oil

Lemon beurre blanc sauce

(see below)

1 slice bacon

Cut fillet in half crossways or perpendicularly. Lightly season with salt and pepper, then lightly oil the entire fillet. Place fillets on baking sheet or pan with the skin side down.

Broil on high for about 10 minutes, or until fish has become somewhat firm and attractively browned. Meanwhile, brown the bacon in a pan until crisp. Drain, roughly chop and set aside.

Gently place shad fillets in serving dish and spoon lemon beurre blanc on top, then garnish with bacon. Serve with roasted potatoes and ramps sauteed in olive oil and white wine. Makes one hearty portion.

LEMON BEURRE BLANC

1/2 cup white wine

1/4 cider vinegar

1 lemon

1 shallot, chopped

Several sprigs fresh thyme

Black pepper

3/4 pound Amish roll butter*

Combine wine and vinegar in a pot. Cut lemon in half, squeeze juice into pot and throw in the lemon halves, too. Add shallot, thyme and pepper, and cook down to slightly less than a quarter-cup. Strain, then return sauce to the pot.

Cube the butter and add to pot a little at a time while whisking. Once all the butter is incorporated and the sauce is smooth, taste and reseason as needed.

*Amish roll butter can be purchased at the Reading Terminal Market's Fair Food Farmstand. Kimport explained that this butter is cultured and has a "slightly soured flavor" that works well in the sauce.

Beurre blanc is usually made with unsalted butter and salt is added at the end. Since Amish butter is salted, taste sauce first before adding salt.

The average size of a set of shad roe is 6 to 8 ounces. The roe has two lobes that Kimport separates with a knife or kitchen shears before cooking, being careful not to tear the membrane.

Handle shad roe gently during cooking. It is common to lightly poach the roe before sauteing to make it more firm. Kimport does the poaching and sauteing in one pan.

SHAD ROE

1 set shad roe

1/3 cup vinegar

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold

1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot

1 tablespoon finely chopped capers

1 lemon

Fresh herb mix (parsley, thyme and sage)

Mache or other spring salad mix

Brioche toast.

Combine vinegar with some water in a 2-to-1 ratio to make about 1/3 cup. Pour into a saute pan and gently lay the roe on top. Under medium-low heat, gently roll the roe back and forth in the pan for 2 to 3 minutes.

Carefully tilt pan to drain all but 2 tablespoons of the liquid. Add the butter, shallots, capers, juice of the lemon and a sprinkle of freshly chopped herbs.

Cook for 5 to 7 minutes until somewhat firm. Remove roe gently from pan and cook the butter sauce until it turns a nut-brown color. Place mache in pan, put roe on top and pour sauce over all. Serve with toasted brioche or other bread. Serves two as an appetizer.