After dinner at IndeBlue, the refined, new Indian BYOB in Collingswood, we settle in for a plate of - spaghetti and meatballs?

Hold the fork and take off the bib. It's chef-owner Rakesh Ramola's clever take on the Northern Indian dessert glob jamun, a doughnutlike confection in a syrup flavored with cardamom and rosewater. Their dark color makes them look like meatballs. Ramola softens vanilla ice cream and extrudes it through a colander.

Mama Mumbai!

"Spaghetti and meatballs" ($3.75) at IndeBlue, 618 Collings Ave., Collingswood, 856-854-4633.

- Michael Klein