Lunch can take a while at Cafe Laube, as the staff at this bare-bones new creperie is still finding its way around the griddle.

But simplicity and a good batter are the keys to satisfying crepes, and owner Jean-Luc Fanny's cafe eventually delivers on both counts. A touch of buckwheat flour lends the delicate rounds an earthy, nutty hue especially nice for the savory crepes. And this classic filled with buttery leeks, crispy bacon, crème fraîche and melted emmentaler ($7.50) is a tasty reward for patience.

Cafe Laube, 1512 South St., 215-546-1550.

- Craig LaBan