The good old Tex-Mex burrito has become the forgotten orphan amid our current boom of authentic Mexican taquerias. But the recently expanded El Fuego is doing its part to keep the belly-filling icon from becoming the exclusive domain of chains like Qdoba or Baja Fresh.

At its new branch near Rittenhouse Square, a sleek urban nook with communal slate tables, flip-up front windows, margaritas, and craft beers on draft, the burrito gets its due with simple but freshly cooked fillings. My favorite is the spicy beef, brisket slow-braised with adobo and shredded, then heaped with pintos and cilantro-flecked lime rice. Wrapped into a weighty tortilla-wrapped bundle of drippy goodness, it is the burrito remembered fondly, once again.

A spicy beef burrito costs $7.50 at El Fuego, 2104 Chestnut St., 215-751-1435.

- Craig LaBan