Chef Peter Woolsey (Paris' Lucas Carton, Philly's Striped Bass) has been winning raves at his new Bistrot La Minette in Queen Village. While early goers praise the flammekueche (Alsatian "pizza") and the lamb shank, don't overlook the red-mullet appetizer known as rouget à la Niçoise. The fish sits atop an earthy salad of oven-roasted tomatoes, black olives, parsley, basil, capers, and toasted pine nuts, ringed by a vinaigrette of lemon, olive oil and reduced fish stock.

Rouget à la Niçoise, $14, at Bistrot La Minette, 623 S. Sixth St., 215-925-8000.

- Michael Klein