An exuberant embrace of seasonality and produce has always been a hallmark of Marcie Turney's fresh American updates to Mexican cuisine at Lolita. So, as her former BYO begins to find its voice as a full-service restaurant, it's no surprise its first big drink hit - the cucumber-jalapeño margarita - would make a juice bar proud.

Cucumber, of course, has long been a most alcohol-friendly veggie, from Hendrick's gin to an incredibly refreshing recent saison called Banjo made by Ambler's Forest & Main.

In Lolita's margarita, the cuke makes for a juicy canvas, spiked, of course with tequila (standard-issue Sauza.) But the blend is also layered with a burst of jicama, an herbaceous tint of cilantro, and a ping of jalapeño that lingers on the back of your tongue with a tickle of warmth that says: more, por favor.

- Craig LaBan

Cucumber-jalapeño margarita, $10, Lolita, 106 S. 13th St., 215-546-7100.