Cerise in Bryn Mawr becomes a steakhouse

Chef Ben Thomas and his wife, Elena, have rebranded Restaurant Cerise, their five-year-old Euro-style BYOB in Bryn Mawr, into Cerise Craft Steakhouse.

Thomas points to trends. Five years ago, he said, he had little competition. Now, between King of Prussia and neighboring towns, patrons have more options.

But steakhouses intrigued him. Though "people seem to be loving them," he said, he's been disappointed so often in his own experience.

His idea: "Why don't we do it better, and different."

As in skipping the "$15 baked potato," as he calls it, in favor of interesting sides such as fried cauliflower with curry aoili; corn-and-Cheddar souffle; and duck-fat potatoes.

He's also scouring the local farms and providers for specific cuts.

His menu includes a 16-ounce prime ribeye from Creekstone ($39) and a 14-ounce 40-day dry-aged prime New York strip ($49).

Cerise remains BYOB, and that will keep the tab down. There's a Fine Wines & Good Spirits shop across the street, and Thomas posts wine suggestions on his website.