Now open: Peppercorn (503 W. Lancaster Ave., Wayne, 610-964-2588) in Eagle Village Shops.
It's in the spot that for 12 years was a Georges Perrier restaurant known as Le Mas Perrier, Le Mas, and georges'.
The Main Line building's bones are the same. It's a series of rooms, including a rustic, high-ceilinged bar, a sunny rear garden room, a hushed main dining room, and assorted nooks.
Where Le Mas Perrier aspired to the look of a farmhouse in the south of France, Peppercorn has opted for an overall feeling of warmth and luxury. Each room looks different, yet flows into the next.
In other words, not run of the mill.
Designer Chris Mullen, working with co-owner Karen Lotman, used textured and printed fabrics and original artwork.
Lotman and her husband, Herb, also owned georges'. When asked what happened to their affiliation with Perrier — who also ceded Center City's Le Bec-Fin last year and Narberth's the Art of Bread last spring to investors — she said simply: "It's up. We're here. That's it."
Chef David Murray, a georges' alumnus, assembled a menu of American favorites. Although he offers wet-aged, center-cut USDA Prime New York strip steak and filet mignon ($48, including sides), the menu is built for assorted budgets (e.g. eight pizzas, three burgers, sandwiches, roasted chicken wings, crab cakes, lamb loin, salmon, house-made pasta). Murray has been given carte blanche to source quality ingredients, Karen Lotman said.