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Upper Crust: Coal-fired pizza at Bricco in Westmont

Vincenzo Barone, reaching back for an old-fashioned pizza-making technique, is a bit of a mad scientist.

The Philadelphia area is home to hundreds of pizzerias. "Upper Crust" presents our favorites and the people behind them.

Barone set out with the zeal and patience of a mad scientist, working out exacting formulas before opening the parlor on a Camden County corner in April 2014. The dining room, set back from the counter, is decorated handsomely with dark wood tables, wooden floors and walls, and a mural.

His dough proofs at room temperature for 24 hours before it hits the fridge for 12 hours. It then is brought up to room temperature before it's tossed, topped, and baked. Starting price is $10 for a 12-inch, and $15 for a 16-inch.

What we especially love: The classic margherita and the pepperoni.

What else is good: Baked chicken wings (yes - reminiscent of the corporate-run Anthony's Coal-Fired Pizzeria), salads, panini.

Bricco Coal Fired Pizza, 128 Haddon Ave., Westmont, N.J., 856-477-2233.

Have a suggestion for "Upper Crust"? Parlors must be in the nine-county Philadelphia metro area. Email here.