Great Wine Values: Jacob’s Creek Reserve Shiraz

In the ’90s, Americans fell for Australian Shiraz. We were charmed by the colorful label cartoons on the fruity red wines softened with a faint kiss of sweetness, but what really sealed the deal was their astoundingly low prices. Nowadays, Shiraz of this cheap and cheerful variety has plenty of competition, from Argentine malbecs to California’s off-dry red blends. But, sadly, those lighthearted “critter wines” gave Americans the impression that Aussie Shiraz is not “serious” wine. Nothing could be farther from the truth; Australia’s best Shiraz has a place in the fine-wine pantheon alongside Oregon pinot noir and California chardonnay, and though many entry-level wines feature some residual sweetness, top bottlings are usually drier. The finest are from appellations like Barossa, as with this modestly priced reserve cuvée, where climate conditions favor smaller volumes of fruit and superior wines. Most Barossa Shiraz is considerably more expensive, but this reliable wine delivers a taste of the region’s character. And for a wine that retails for less than $15, its brambly core of blackberry jam and faint whiffs of black pepper and bacon offer far more depth than one can usually expect at this price.

Jacob’s Creek Reserve Shiraz, Barossa, Australia. $9.99 (regularly $12.99; sale price through March 24). PLCB Item #8843

Also available at: Total Wine & More in Claymont, Del. ($11.49); Total Wine & More in Cherry Hill ($12.29); Hops & Grapes in Glassboro ($12.98).