As restaurant critic and Drink columnist for the Inquirer, I cover the culture of Philly food as I chronicle the rise of our culinary stars, the decline of some, and the dramatic evolution of a dining scene that shapes emerging neighborhoods and helps define our region's identity, one plate at a time.
Korean food has never been more popular on mainstream menus in Center City and Philly’s suburbs but the old-school charcoal-fired grills are becoming an endangered species. The original Seorabol, the best of those survivors, is definitely still worth the trip.
It's part of a dying breed, that next wave of “post-red gravy” places launched by second- and third-generation Italian American families whose recipes evolved to embrace the prosperity upgrades of a slightly fancier pantry,
Sulguni is a semi-firm fat disk of brined cheese similar in look and texture to low-moisture mozzarella. It can be made of cow or buffalo’s milk, or a mix of the two, and can also be aged or intensely smoked.