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MARY BETH SHERIDAN / Washington Post
The Three Gorges Dam has raised alarm that much of the beauty along the Yangtze will be drowned, but for now much remains to be seen.
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Looking into China's heart

As the water rises, the Yangtze River's Three Gorges are still stunning, giving glimpses of what the country was and what it's becoming.

Upstream cruises tend to take longer and are less popular - but they're also often cheaper and less crowded.

We traveled with Orient Royal (www.orientroyalcruise.com), which gave us a 10 percent discount for booking online. Because of Chinese banking regulations, though, we couldn't pay by credit card and had to wire the cash from a bank. Our four-night cruise upstream cost $792 per person, which included meals, shore excursions and airport transfers. Once on board, we decided to spend an extra $100 each to upgrade from a bottom-level cabin to one on the fourth floor with nicer windows and better views.

Other lines offering Yangtze cruises include Victoria (www.victoriacruises.com) and China Regal (www.chinaregalcruises.com). Viking (www.vikingrivercruises.com) claims to operate the most luxurious ships on the river, but its cruises are open only to travelers who take its package land tours.

More information

China National Tourist Office

www.cnto.org

- Mary Beth Sheridan


Researcher Rena Kirsch contributed to this article.
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