A woman wades in the low-tide water below, hunting for seaweed to sell. Fishing boats, some of them with sail - called dhows - and smaller ones called ngalawa, propelled by poles in the strong arms of fishermen, pass by, heading for the deeper waters beyond the reef.

If that sounds idyllic, that's because it is.

The Matemwe Bungalows, 12 sanctuaries of peace and luxury, are situated on a coral reef facing the Indian Ocean, about an hour's drive north of Stone Town, the legendary center of spices and onetime home of East Africa's slave trade.

After enduring the final 10 minutes of travel through the village of Matemwe - a bone-jarring, dusty experience on the unpaved road - you begin to relax the moment you hear the dulcet voice of Nigel Folker, the resort's gracious general manager.

"It's too late for breakfast, too early for lunch," he purrs. "So let's get over to the bar and get you a bungo juice to ease those parched throats."

Folker, a native of Durban, South Africa, explains that the juice of the fruit from the bungo tree is quite delicious - and he's right.

Matemwe Bungalows is one of several resorts on the Zanzibar archipelago that strive to take care of the environment by building it into the facilities.

For example, the small chunks of soap in the bathroom are made by local women from lemongrass and lemon juice and hand-wrapped in brown paper and string made from leaves. The shower and tap water is saltwater heated by solar panels. For drinking, there are bottles of water.

The resort was started in 1989 by two sisters from Sweden and was targeted to backpackers whose idea of fun was scuba diving and snorkeling at the nearby Mnemba Atoll. Now, it is a place for all manner of tourists. Capacity is 24 people, though beds are added for children. And the rates have risen above backpacker levels - when my wife and I visited in October, a bungalow with breakfast, lunch and dinner included cost $230 per person double in low season.

The resort champions its food. The chef, Said Mohammed, learned his trade in India, where his father was a diplomat. Mohammed buys his fruit and vegetables from markets in Stone Town and from the gardens of local villagers. The seafood was swimming the day before and is bought from some of the same fishermen who pass the bungalows each day on their way to deeper water. An occasional highlight of the dinner hour features Folker feeding sliced banana to a bush baby perched in the crook of a tree next to the barbecue grill.

The rooms are spacious bungalows with ceiling fans, king beds (covered at night with a mosquito net), bathtubs big enough for two, and a veranda with hammock and lounging couch. Two saltwater pools are surrounded by lounging chairs and a bar that closes when the last customer leaves.

For those seeking an even more luxurious experience, the resort has opened three villas north of the bungalows. Each villa has a private bar and air-conditioned bedroom (with the breeze off the ocean, air conditioning seems redundant) on the ground floor, and an upper-level terrace with a plunge pool.

But the real treat is that each villa comes with its own chef.

Zanzibar is part of Tanzania and is a frequent stop for tourists who have gone on safari on the plains of the Serengeti or Ngorongoro Crater. A walk through the labyrinthine section of Stone Town with its winding alleys and bustling bazaars is a unique experience. Hearing the call to prayer - the island is more than 90 percent Muslim - is a moment to be remembered.

While popularly thought of as a single exotic island, Zanzibar is actually made up of two main islands and numerous smaller islands.

A 15-minute boat ride from Stone Town lands us on Chapwani Island, a strip of land about 200 feet wide and less than a half-mile long with abundant wildlife - hermit crabs, small antelope called dik-dik, and a variety of birds.

There are only five cottages here, each with two rooms for two. With a maximum guest population of 20, there is almost a Robinson Crusoe feeling of intimacy. Rates - including meals - are $150 per person double occupancy during low season, $170 in high season. If you're looking for that special place to take all your friends, the entire island can be rented for $2,400 to $2,600 per night, with a three-night minimum.

The island's generator is shut down from 3 to 6 p.m. and from midnight to 6 a.m. It's hardly noticeable unless the breeze dies at night. Without electricity to run the overhead fan, there are few options for staying cool. If you move outside to sleep, be aware of night noises, such as the flapping wings of the island's colony of fruit bats.

The rooms are small and come with a four-poster bed with mosquito net, a saltwater shower, and a Zanzibari writing desk. Each bungalow has a front porch with a lounger for afternoon naps. Just south of the dining area is a saltwater swimming pool with a view of the Tanzanian coast, but most folks head for the beach.

There is also a cemetery, which explains the original name of Grave Island. Buried there are sailors and troops who were killed during World War I or fighting slave traders who defied abolition.

Many of the meals feature local cuisine. For one dinner, chef Ali Abassi devoted the menu to Zanzibarian food: breadfruit, chickpea dumplings, choroko (lentils in rice), kassava leaves and kassava roots (known as muhogo), plantains, chapati (think of a flour tortilla), rice with a choice of coconut or masala sauce, and grilled snapper and grouper.

The hotel is owned by a group of friends led by Francoise Pilois-Brown and her husband, Nigel Brown, who were married in February 1999 in Zanzibar. At the time, the island was abandoned, and they arranged for their 100 wedding guests to be brought here by boat for a picnic on the beach.

It was in Zanzibar that they met Maura Antonietta, an Italian who has spent most of her life in Zanzibar and who was instrumental in helping them acquire the island. Now, Maura watches over the resort, saying, "This is my home and you are my guests."

That sentiment is shared by the staff, particularly Kathleen Andrew Nsema, an all-singing, all-dancing lady in waiting. With an impish smile, she coaxed out of my wife and me that we were celebrating our 10th wedding anniversary.

That evening, when we walked to the main house for dinner (served at 8 nightly), Kathleen declared with a smile, "You will not be dining in the main dining room this evening. Please wait here in the lounge."

Minutes later, kerosene lantern in hand, she led us out of the main house. "For your anniversary, you will be dining on the beach," she said.

At the edge of the beach, with the lights of Stone Town twinkling in the background, stood a table for two, surrounded by 21 candlelit pockets dug in the sand in the shape of a heart. It was a scene carved from a romance novel.

This was a "home" worth visiting.

Relaxing in Zanzibar

The dry seasons are from December to February and June to October. There is a brief rainy season in November, but the main rains fall from mid-March to the end of May. Daytime temperatures average about 78 degrees from June to October, about 82 from December to February, in the mid- to high 80s from March to May. The humidity is generally quite high, but sea breezes bring relief.

Getting there

Most flights to Zanzibar are from Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, or Nairobi, Kenya. American Airlines, British Airways and Emirates airline fly to Dar es Salaam from New York's JFK International Airport with one stop. The lowest recent fare was about $1,469. You can take a 90-minute ferry ride from Dar es Salaam.

Entry/exit fees/visa

The Tanzanian government charges an entry fee of $100 for U.S. citizens, and requires U.S. citizens to pay a $30 exit fee when leaving the country. Both fees payable in U.S. dollars. A visa, as well as a passport, is required for entry.

Getting around

From the airport, a taxi ride to Matemwe is about $25; to Stone Town harbor, it's less than $10. Chapwani offers complimentary boat transfers daily from the island to Stone Town at 10 a.m. and from Stone Town to Chapwani at 1:30 p.m. Or you can take a water taxi from the harbor to Chapwani Island for about $10. A transfer from Chapwani to the airport is $20.

Places to stay

All rates are for this year and are per person, based on double occupancy, with meals included. High season is early to mid-July through August and late December through early January.

Matemwe Bungalows

www.matemwe.com

$245 in low season, $285 in high season. Retreat Villas are $400 low season, $485 high season. Closed April 1-May 31.

Chapwani Island www.chapwaniisland.com

Bungalows are $150 low season, $170 high season. The entire island can be booked for $2,400 per day low season, $2,600 high season - minimum three nights. No air conditioning. Closed April 1-June 4.

- Maurice Possley