If you don't have time for the full trail, you can pick a section for a day trip out of Nazareth, Tiberias, or other points, and catch a bus or taxi on the return. Sami and I had only three days to spare, so we skipped the second section, a walk along a Galilee ridgeline that seemed the least interesting historically.

Day 4, from the small Israeli town of Arbel to historic Capernaum, could easily be truncated. The morning climb down the Arbel cliffs is a high point. But after passing the Arab town of Wadi Hamam, the trail runs through miles of agricultural land that is not so interesting unless you are an agronomist or you really like walking. Stop at the gas station when you hit the highway and arrange a car to the Mount of Beatitudes and you can save a few hours.

Day 3 of the trail, however, running from the Golani Junction to Arbel, should not be missed. The day-long stretch is scenically striking and historically dense. The hike will take you from a small Holocaust memorial outside Kibbutz Lavi to the rubbled remains of the Palestinian village of Hittim, over the plains where Saladin defeated the Crusader army in 1187, and through the spectacle of the Arbel valley.

You can also tour the tomb of the biblical Jethro, father-in-law of Moses and known as Nebi Shueib to the Druze Muslims, who have built a mammoth shrine in veneration.

The actual course of the Jesus Trail grows a bit hazy at that point, which is why we had to slide down a hill. I pressed Inon about whether this was what he expected tourists to do. He explained there was another way that would require backtracking a mile or so, and that's where the trail would run to avoid our "shortcut."

My guess is that Jesus took the long way.

Taking the Jesus Trail

On July 1, US Airways started offering one nonstop flight to Ben Gurion International Airport in Tel Aviv from Philadelphia International Airport, departing at 9:15 p.m. The lowest recent round-trip fare was $1,228, plus taxes and fees.

The Jesus Trail is designed to begin in Nazareth. There is regular bus service from Tel Aviv (No. 826) and from Jerusalem (No. 955); it's about a two-hour trip from either city. Those arriving at Ben Gurion Airport can take a train to Haifa; at Haifa's Merkaz Hashmona station, the No. 331 bus goes to Nazareth.

Places to stay

Maoz Inon's Fauzi Azar Inn (Nazareth's Old City, www.fauziazarinn.com) has rooms with private bath (about $53 per person), four-bed rooms with bath (about $35 per person) and dorm-style facilities (about $21 per person).

The Golden Crown Hotel & Resort (Mount of the Precipice, Afula-Nazareth Road, Nazareth, www.goldencrown.co.il) offers 243 modern rooms: single rooms with breakfast, $140-$200, depending on season; doubles, $160-$240; full and half board also available.

Places to eat

Sudfeh (Hamaain Square, Nazareth, www.2eat.co.il/eng/sudfeh) features seafood specialties with an Arab flair.

Tishreen (Mary's Well 56) serves traditional Middle Eastern dishes, plus an array of continental food.

Things to do

Volunteers lead free, all-day walking tours that cover the first leg of the Jesus Trail (Nazareth to Cana, a 12-mile trek; you can return to town by bus). Walks start at 8 a.m. Monday to Saturday at the entrance to the Basilica of the Annunciation. The walk includes Zippori National Park (www.parks.org.il), with magnificent Byzantine mosaics among its ruins.

More information

The Jesus Trail Web site, www.jesustrail.com, features GPS downloads and PDFs with turn-by-turn directions.

- Howard Schneider